My Summer Project: Install a Budget Makeshift Home Surveillance System

Ever wanted to be just as cool as the government? Ever wanted to spy on your own house or watch the newspaper guy throw the paper onto your lawn? Or maybe there's a small chance that you actually have a legitimate need for video surveillance on your property but, like me, are too poor to buy top-of-the-line hardware and software for it. If this sounds like you, then read on!

I, too, had the interest of using a surveillance camera in my house. I accomplished this by re-purposing an old webcam I had sitting around, so it would finally get some use. Now, I use that webcam as my HamCam, to spy on my hamster.

What I did was, I plugged my webcam in to my desktop and installed a program called iSpy. This allowed me to use my webcam as a motion-sensing surveillance camera. Once I installed that, I went through the settings and made a few tweaks to settings. Specifically, I now have it record video upon detecting motion. I also have it run on a schedule, so it turns off around when I go to bed, and turns on again in the morning when there is light enough to see again.

But what about syncing to the cloud, you ask? Fret not; that base is covered too! What I did to achieve this was change the directory my HamCam videos are saved in, so that it's in my Dropbox folder. Now, I can view it on my Dropbox from anywhere I am. Each time motion is detected, I also have it store a snapshot of the photo in my Dropbox for my viewing pleasure.

I wasn't finished just yet, though. The finishing touch to this was having the photos and videos auto-import into my phone's gallery for ease of access. I accomplished this by using an app called DropSync, which auto-downloads or uploads photos to/from your Dropbox. The Pro key costs $4.99, but it's worth it to me. I had them save to a folder in my SD card under DCIM called HamCam. Because they're in my DCIM folder, they can also be auto-backed up to my Google+, and I can spam my friends with them! ...but I don't, because I don't have friends. I have a hamster.

I should mention that this was done on a Windows PC, and my phone is an Android phone. If there is anyone who's had similar experiences on Linux or OSX, with an iPhone or other type of phone, they might post about it below and what they use (hint hint, guys!).

Look at my little Hamlet unknowingly being watched at all times. The NSA would be proud.

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How To Budget When You Don't Have a Regular Paycheck

Successful budgeting tends to depend on two things: careful planning and a steady income. The first, anyone can do. The second isn’t so simple. If you’re self-employed or a freelancer, you might be asking yourself: "But I don’t have a regular paycheck coming in. Can I even set up a budget? Should I bother?" You can. And, yes, you should.

A budget is simply a way of figuring out how much money you need to go about your daily life, and arranging things so that you don’t exceed that number. No matter your situation, budgeting is a critical part of making sure your finances are sustainable.

Budgeting is especially important if your income is irregular: if you’re a freelancer, a temp worker, a consultant, an artist, a permanent employee with fluctuating hours, or a commissioned salesperson. Or if you do seasonal work, if a big part of your income depends on tips, if you own a small or startup business, if you’re on call, or if you are simply an odd-jobber, then this article is for you.

When you have a steady paycheck and a predictable income, you budget by allocating spending categories within that limit. But those with unpredictable incomes must work “backward”—starting with the amount of money you’ll spend to figure out how much you need. If your income is unstable, then it is your expenditures that must be stable, predictable, and repeatable.

According to the 50/20/30 rule, there are three categories of expenditures: essentials, priorities, and lifestyle. Your baseline expenditures are those in the essentials category—those that must be paid every month, without which you can’t live. The first costs you’ll want to estimate are:

For your baseline, include the lowest food cost that is reasonable for your circumstances. Plan your grocery expenditures without any extras, like restaurants, coffee shops (unless you must use them to have business meetings or to avoid paying for internet at home), wine, or fast-food pit stops. If you’ll be couponing and cutting back your food costs, take that into account, but if you know you won’t clip a single square, be realistic about your cost estimates. One of the best ways to get an estimate is to track your spending for at least a few weeks to get an idea of how and where you spend.

For almost everyone, essential expenses include rent or mortgage payments. If you’re responsible for either, or if you house-share, live for free, or have a sliding rent arrangement, include your minimum monthly housing cost in your baseline. Make sure to include the monthly amount for homeowner’s insurance and property tax bills in your total.

If you live in a geographic region in which heating or air-conditioning is a life essential, include these average monthly bills in your baseline. In moderate regions, utility costs are a lifestyle choice—but heat isn’t optional in January in Vermont. The same goes for internet and phone costs: if you work from home, they’re most likely a necessity and should be included in your housing and utility estimate.

A note about health insurance: The number-one reason people go bankrupt is because of medical costs, so it could not be more important that you have some form of health insurance. You should include these costs in your baseline estimate, as well as payments for any outstanding medical bills.

Do you need to include transportation to work in your baseline? Consider the lowest possible transportation cost given your job or jobs. Do you absolutely need a car, car loan payments, auto insurance, maintenance, garaging costs, and gas expenses? Or is there great public transportation in your city? Can you walk to work? Telecommute? Can you infrequently taxi, Uber, ride-share, Zipcar, or call for delivery? Again: be realistic with your estimate. If you’re actually going to drive your SUV alone, round-trip, every day, factor that into the costs.

Add up the baseline numbers, and you have the amount of the monthly “paycheck” you’ll write to yourself.

This step is easy (well…sort of). Once you know your monthly baseline expenditures—and thus the paycheck you’ll write to yourself each month—use an online tax calculator to get a rough idea of how much you’ll owe in taxes. Add this new number to your baseline costs. This figure represents your bare-bones monthly income requirement.

The tricky part, of course, is guaranteeing you have enough income to meet your expenses. Anything above the bare-bones income target goes first to your financial priorities savings; second to your emergency fund savings; and third to you as “bonus” to spend on lifestyle choices.

To make this plan most effective, you’ll want to set up separate bank accounts. Your bank will let you have as many accounts as you need, and if you maintain a minimum balance in all the accounts combined, it should waive fees (just as it would if you maintained a minimum balance in a single account).

Here you’ll have your checks auto-deposited, you’ll plunk your daily cash from tips if you get them, and you’ll deposit your invoice payments from clients. You’ll make only three transfers from this account each month: one to each of the below accounts.

From this account, you’ll pay all your bills—essentials, priorities, and lifestyle—but you won’t spend more than you’ve paid yourself any month. This account will also receive any monthly “bonus” you might want to pay yourself when your income exceeds your target, and you have money left to spend beyond your savings (which is technically a fourth transfer).

Every month, after you’ve paid yourself for your baseline and transferred amounts for financial priorities, you’ll put money into your emergency fund. You should be aiming to save at least six months of net income in this account, to be used in the following situations only:

You’ve lost your job, and need to continue paying rent, bills and other living expenses.You have a medical or dental emergency.Your car breaks down, and it’s your primary form of transportation.You have emergency home expenses—e.g., your AC breaks down in 100°F-plus weather, your roof is leaking, your basement is flooded, your toilet is overflowing, etc.You have bereavement-related expenses, like travel costs for a family funeral.This account holds money for annual or semiannual payments (income taxes, property taxes, home insurance) and for important goals—payments on student loans, the down payment for a house, or college savings for your child.

That’s it! You now have a basic budget, your income target, and where exactly your money should go, no matter how it comes in.

How to Budget Without Regular Paychecks | LearnVest

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