Make a Kayak Paddle!

Materials
(2) 14.5-18 Gallon Storage Container Lids: $4.50 - Free (W)                                                                        
(7') 1/8" Nylon Rope $0.11 per foot = $0.77 total (H)
Duct Tape: $2.49 (H)
(1) 3/4” OD, 10’ long Galvanized Conduit: $6.99 (H)

Total Cost = $10.25 – 14.75

*From Hardware Store = H, Walmart =W

Other Tools
Pocket Knife
Flat Head Screwdriver
Medium Duty Scissors

The Storage Container Lids were actually given to me for free. I had the intention of buying just the lids without the containers ($4.50), but the clerk didn’t know how to ring it up. She told me when people buy the containers they forget to grab the lids all the time. She gave me a wink and had some free lids!

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Kayak Step Cart

An alternative to the DIY PVC cart - easy to make, doubles as a step for loading / unloading and folds for convenient transportation / storage.  It doesn't get much easier than this.Needing a kayak cart, I was looking for alternatives to measuring / cutting / gluing (cursing*&$#! / re-measuring / re-cutting / re-gluing) a PVC cart.  In the process, I came across this folding step stool.  (ranging in price from $10 - $15 online or local store)

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How to make a Kayak drainage port

I've been Kayaking for several years.  As much as I love getting out onto the water I don't look forward to the necessary cleanup.  Oh, for the most part it's really straight forward but the way kayaks are designed drives me absolutely bonkers.  They mold the kayaks to create a deep cockpit that is absolutely impossible to empty of water.  Now don't get me wrong, my kayak doesn't get filled up when I'm paddling about, it gets filled up when I have to hose out the muck and grim that gets inside it from hopping in and out. I usually launch from the water's edge and not a dock so I usually end up with a small amount of mud, sand and such on the inside.  The cockpits are lipped on the edge so even flipping it upside down and rolling it back and forth won't get everything out.  In I go with my various methods of water drainage - e.g. cups, sponges, towels, etc...

I can't imaging why they couldn't build proper drainage into the production molds but since they didn't I decided to take matters into my own hands.  A quick trip to my local depot store for a few odd pieces and I was ready to get started.  Never shy to Frankenstein my Kayak to make it more usable, I grabbed my Dremil and swung into work with careless abandon!

I had previously taken a swing at making it easier to empty the water from my cockpit by putting a drainage plug on its side, under the edge lip.  Didn't work very well.  Honestly, it didn't really work at all.  The effort it took to rock the kayak back and forth over this little 1" hole just wasn't worth it and it ended up taking longer than normal methods.

Where to now?  How could I drain the water of the cockpit without sacrificing its water tight integrity?  Front, back, side, top, bottom?  I originally though about putting a plug up towards the bow but the surface curvature was too much and I couldn't figure out how to mount a plug correctly.  Plus, there's a large block of ballast foam stuck way up front and I'd have to dig that out.  Too far up, too narrow and I'm too fat.  Next...

The rear of the kayak was flat(ish) and would make a decent plug mount location but there was the problem of the rear watertight compartment.  I'd have to allow the water through the watertight bulkhead, through the watertight compartment and out the watertight skin.  Three "watertight" items that I've to pass water.  Yeah, perfect, that will do nicely!!

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Bike Kayak Trailer

I built this kayak hauler for a friend.

I spent a good bit of time thinking about the hitch.  My favorite part is using a short piece of automotive heater hose to wrap around the bike seat post.  It flexes a little, absorbs small shocks, and attaches and removes quickly with no tools.  I like it.

The trailer has a wooden frame with low-speed low-pressure wheels, slightly smaller than wheelbarrow wheels.  They roll nicely and absorb minor shocks.

It's all connected by a long piece of black iron pipe, bent to the contours of the rear bike wheel and the bow of the kayak.  And the pipe swivels in the frame so everything moves.

Main components:
- Non-swivel pneumatic casters, 10 inch diameter wheels:  http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-pneumatic-rigid-caster-38943.html
- Black iron gas pipe, 10 ft length, 3/4 inch diameter:  http://www.lowes.com/pd_313570-185-314+34X120_0__?Ntt=313570&UserSearch=313570&productId=3538958&rpp=32
- Automotive heater hose
- Misc timbers, metal, nuts, bolts, nails, fittings, etc.

Tools
- A hydraulic pipe bender was helpful:  http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
- Generic handyman tools:  Drills, saws, wrenches, files, etc.

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