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As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.
The brake system has a ratcheting action. Every time you apply the brakes, the pistons press the brake pad against the rotor creating friction which slows the bike down and also results in loss of material on the brake pad itself. This wearing process occurs slowly or else we would be changing pads daily instead of after thousands of miles. When the lever is released, the pressure is released and a set of springs and a little bit of vibration and bumping from the rotor cause the brake pads to push the pistons backward slightly to remove the friction from the rotor. As the pads get thinner from repeated brake application, the pistons slowly move out of the caliper over time so that the brake lever engages more or less at the same distance from the hand grip. This is the so-called ratcheting action of the hydraulic brake system. As this occurs, the level of hydraulic fluid in the brake reservoir will be dropping so maintenance top-ups are required.
Over time, dirt and brake dust coat the pistons in the brake caliper. Some of this dirt may work itself into the piston seal when the pistons retract a bit after brake application. Sometimes, instead of the piston sliding forward through the seal when the brakes are applied, the piston gets stuck to the seal and rolls the seal forward when the brake lever is pulled. When the brake lever is released, the seal restores its normal shape causing the piston to be pulled backward. The ratcheting action is lost. As the brakes wear, the piston gets further and further from the friction point. The result is that the brake lever activation point moves closer and closer to the handgrip.
The speed at which the piston retracts back into the caliper due to elastic action of the seal is quite slow so 2 quick pumps on the brake lever generally result in the pistons making contact with the pads, and the lever works at the correct distance from the handgrip. The reason pumping works is because the first pump moves the piston outward as much as the hydraulic fluid pushed into the system from the hand lever allows, and the second pump forces additional hydraulic fluid in behind the piston which moves it out to the pad and generates enough friction to stop the motorcycle.
Crikey, a lot of words to describe this problem. So on with the fix.
Age-old story: Our back door screen ripped out thanks to the ever-gentle touch of kids and pets.
I was just going to replace the screen, but as it turns they didn't have the typical groove and spline but rather the screen was pinched against the door with a metal inner frame. IMO, this is a stupid way to design the thing since the only thing really holding the screen fabric is a few screws. One little push and *rip*. Game over.
So, no doubt the best solution to this would have been to go down to Home Despot, buy a screen door kit for $25 bux, and slap it in.
But where's the fun in that?
I decided to follow my current cedar fetish and make a victorian-esque screen door. Not only will it help class the place up a bit, but it will also hold the screen with a proper spline and also it will have wooden supports in the lower half to keep little hands and paws from pushing directly against said screen.
1. Vise (or other means for securely holding your power "brick")
2. Soldering Iron (and solder)
3. Multimeter (not strictly needed, but its always better to check your work)
4. Flathead Screwdriver
5. Wire Cutter/Stripper
6. Utility Knife
7. Hot Glue Gun
8. Super Glue
9. Heat Shrink Tubing or Electrical Tape (not pictured)
Here I will show you how to repair the cable of your badly damaged headphones and basically give them another chance!
Or if you wish to do like me and save yourself $150 by buying busted headphones from ebay for about $20 and then fixing them like a pro!
(This instructable is very similar to another that I've posted, but this is in more detail and shows the whole headphones repair. )