AirAudio Makes Your Android Device Airplay Compatible

Android (Rooted): AirAudio is a utility that lets you Android phone or tablet play nicely with your AppleTV, Airport Extreme/Express, or any other AirPlay compatible device in your home entertainment system. Best of all, it's free.

Your Android phone needs to be rooted for AirAudio to work, but if it is, you'll be able to push any audio from your Android phone—whether it's a streaming music or pre-recorded audio, to a set of AirPlay compatible speakers or audio devices. Once installed, all you have to do is select the available AirPlay devices on your network, set the output volume, and listen while your music comes out of the big speakers instead of the small ones. You can even play your Android's audio through multiple Airport receivers at the same time.

The app doesn't technically require Ice Cream Sandwich, but ICS users will get the most benefit. There are two audio output modes: "system audio" and "microphone." Microphone is great if you want to speak into your phone and hear it through the speakers, but "system audio" is what you really want to use. On pre-ICS devices, "microphone" is the only option, and it essentially plays your audio on your phone and uses microphone mode to pass that audio to your AirPlay speakers. It's a little echo-y, but it works, even on unsupported devices.

AirAudio is free, and it's a great option if you're rooted and running ICS. If you're not, it's still worth a try if you can't find another app that bridges the gap between your Android phone and your AirPlay speakers. Hit the link below to grab it.

AirAudio (Free) | Google Play

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DIY Infrared Night Vision Device

To quickly summarize how our device will work, it is simply a camera that can see infrared light that is invisible to the naked eye, and can utilize the infrared light like a flashlight. Usually a form of display is required. Often times, the use of a viewfinder from an old camcorder is used for this purpose, however these are hard parts to find without buying an entire camera, and I didn't have any cameras lying around, and I certainly wasn't going to waste money on an entire camera that I was only going to use for a viewfinder. So I used an LCD screen for this purpose instead. Here are the parts you'll be needing for this project:

Cost:
I spent about $60-$70 on electronic components for this project (excluding replacing a part that I ruined), and around $25-$30 for the boxes for the enclosure. If you build your own enclosure, you can probably save a lot of money. If you build this exactly like I did, you'll probably expect to spend around $100 give or take.

Electronics (Prices as of 5/16/13):
-3.5" TFT LCD screen....... $20.00
(http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1O1ZIWOSSBYGI&coliid=I3T7G8S5HAVZ7F)

Takes 12V, has two video inputs- yellow and white. The white input will override the yellow making the white input suitable for other external axillary usage for other AV equipment.

-Low lux video camera module...... $31.40
(http://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng-Surveillance-Security-Degrees-Support/dp/B005FE88VE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1O1ZIWOSSBYGI&coliid=I1M69IMZSUVC2I)

Other cameras will work so long as they can connect to the RCA video input on the screen. This camera is .008 lux rated. The lower the lux rating, the better it will see in the dark and the easier it will be able to detect IR light. I wouldn't go any higher than .008 for this, as the camera won't be sensitive enough to pick up the IR light effectively to create an image.

-30 LED Infrared illuminator..... $13.95
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2E4U4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

IR illumination is usually available in 840nm and 940nm wavelengths and the intensity is measured in watts, not lumens. 840nm IR light will also produce a visible red glow when viewed with the naked eye, however 940nm IR is completely invisible and undetectable. I chose a near infrared illuminator because it was easier to find, and it was more affordable than other IR illuminators.

I also picked up a Cree Ultrafire WF-501b Infrared Torch (850nm, so there is a red glow)..... $19.96
http://(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RL0KS6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I ended up getting one of these for my rifle to use in addition to the infrared illuminator for longer distance viewing. Remember, more IR = more viewing distance.

-12V Battery

I was able to get an 8 AA battery holder that adds up to 12V for a few bucks at Radioshack. So long as you use 12V DC, you'll be fine.

-5V voltage regulator.....$1.99 from Radioshack

This is very important because the camera will only accept 5V DC power. Any more voltage than that will fry it and cost you another $30 camera. Trust me, it's not a good feeling to realize that you accidentally ruined your camera and have to buy another one. That's why this instructable is here for you, so you can learn from my mistakes and save money...and probably some profanity as well.  :)

-Male to male RCA video adapter:

You'll need this because both the screen and the camera have female plugs for video and need to be connected. You can find one of these at Radioshack for around $5.

-Switches: You'll need a  switch for turning on the camera and screen and for turning on the infrared illuminator. Switches are cheap and usually only a buck or two a pop.

Tools/Hardware:

-Multimeter
-Screwdriver
-Soldering iron
-Solder
-Wire strippers/cutters
-Wire
-Heat shrink tubing
-Lighter or heat gun
-Electrical tape
-JB weld
-Hot glue/Hot glue gun
-Drill and bits or access to a drill press
-Dremel tool and cutting attachment
-Black spray paint

Enclosure: This step is completely up to you. I used several ABS project boxes in various sizes from my local Radioshack electronics store and mounted them together to create my enclosure. The sizes I used were 5x2.5x2", 6x3x2", and 8x4x2". You could probably use PVC pipe, wood, plastic containers, etc and it would work just fine.

Completely optional, I also used some cheap 3M full-seal chemical protection safety goggles (lab goggles) to make the faceplate of the viewer and to help prevent light from the LCD screen from leaking and giving my position away (as if the glowing red IR LED's weren't enough). Plus....it does improve the look of the finished unit a bit.  :)

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