Should I water my lawn during the night?

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Do CFL bulbs really last as long as they claim?

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Sunset Lets You Use Your Phone Without Losing Your Night Vision

Android: If you're stargazing at night, or just somewhere dark and you don't want to be blinded by using your phone, Sunset for Android is a simple screen filter that applies a reddish overtone to your display so you won't lose your night vision.

The app was built by and for amateur astronomers who wanted to use their phone without losing their ability to see while using telescopes or binoculars. It's just as useful for people who need to use their phone in a dark restaurant or movie theater without annoying anyone or signaling to everyone around that they've turned their screen on. The app has four different screen filters: "dark," a standard grey filter; "midnight," a dark filter that's slightly blue; "sunset," a filter designed to limit the amount of blue light you see before bed (blue light makes it harder to fall and stay asleep, if you don't remember); and "red," the filter originally designed for amateur astronomers and stargazers, which lets you see detail without being bright or distracting.

Sunset isn't the only app like this. Previously mentioned Twilight is more like F.lux for Android, and offers a similar red tint, only it's applied as the day progresses. If you want to try Sunset, you can grab it from Google Play for $1.

Sunset ($1) | Google Play

Related We've known for years that viewing electronics before bed disturbs or prevents sleep. But the National Sleep Foundation finds that 95 percent of … Read…

Related Twilight is an Android app that automatically adjusts your device's brightness (or really, color temperature) over the course of the day,… Read…

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Last night, Sony showed us what the PlayStation 4 looks like, how much it costs ($399 US), revealed

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Turn an NES Controller into a Night Light

When you need to get up at night, it helps to have a little light so you don't stumble through the dark. If any light will do, why not make an awesome one out of an old NES controller?

Instructables user lonesoulsurfer decided to do just that with some lights, AAA rechargeable batteries, a solar panel, casting resin, and a few other materials. While not the simplest of ways to turn a controller into a night light, you definitely get a pretty awesome product in the end. Check out the video above for a demonstration of all the different features of the light and the Instructables post for the full how-to.

NES Controller Night Light in Resin

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NES Controller Night Light in Resin

Materials

1.  NES Controller. 
The one that I used didn't work anymore.  You can purchase these from Ebay

2.  3 AAA rechargeable batteries

3.  5.5v solar panel -  Ebay

4.  Clear 5mm LED lights -  Ebay

5.  Mercury switch - Ebay

6.  Rear bike light. 
I found this one on the ground!  You can buy them though from Ebay for dirt cheap.  The one that I have linked to is a 9 LED, the one I used had 7.

7.  Computer wire.  Pulled from an old PC

8.  Casting Resin.  purchased from my local hardware store

9.  Mould.  - Ebay

10. Diode

Tools

1.  Soldering Iron

2.  Solder

3.  Pliers

4.  Hot Glue

6.  Drill

7.  Stanlley knife.

8.  Dremmel

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DIY Infrared Night Vision Device

To quickly summarize how our device will work, it is simply a camera that can see infrared light that is invisible to the naked eye, and can utilize the infrared light like a flashlight. Usually a form of display is required. Often times, the use of a viewfinder from an old camcorder is used for this purpose, however these are hard parts to find without buying an entire camera, and I didn't have any cameras lying around, and I certainly wasn't going to waste money on an entire camera that I was only going to use for a viewfinder. So I used an LCD screen for this purpose instead. Here are the parts you'll be needing for this project:

Cost:
I spent about $60-$70 on electronic components for this project (excluding replacing a part that I ruined), and around $25-$30 for the boxes for the enclosure. If you build your own enclosure, you can probably save a lot of money. If you build this exactly like I did, you'll probably expect to spend around $100 give or take.

Electronics (Prices as of 5/16/13):
-3.5" TFT LCD screen....... $20.00
(http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Inch-TFT-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1O1ZIWOSSBYGI&coliid=I3T7G8S5HAVZ7F)

Takes 12V, has two video inputs- yellow and white. The white input will override the yellow making the white input suitable for other external axillary usage for other AV equipment.

-Low lux video camera module...... $31.40
(http://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng-Surveillance-Security-Degrees-Support/dp/B005FE88VE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1O1ZIWOSSBYGI&coliid=I1M69IMZSUVC2I)

Other cameras will work so long as they can connect to the RCA video input on the screen. This camera is .008 lux rated. The lower the lux rating, the better it will see in the dark and the easier it will be able to detect IR light. I wouldn't go any higher than .008 for this, as the camera won't be sensitive enough to pick up the IR light effectively to create an image.

-30 LED Infrared illuminator..... $13.95
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2E4U4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

IR illumination is usually available in 840nm and 940nm wavelengths and the intensity is measured in watts, not lumens. 840nm IR light will also produce a visible red glow when viewed with the naked eye, however 940nm IR is completely invisible and undetectable. I chose a near infrared illuminator because it was easier to find, and it was more affordable than other IR illuminators.

I also picked up a Cree Ultrafire WF-501b Infrared Torch (850nm, so there is a red glow)..... $19.96
http://(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RL0KS6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I ended up getting one of these for my rifle to use in addition to the infrared illuminator for longer distance viewing. Remember, more IR = more viewing distance.

-12V Battery

I was able to get an 8 AA battery holder that adds up to 12V for a few bucks at Radioshack. So long as you use 12V DC, you'll be fine.

-5V voltage regulator.....$1.99 from Radioshack

This is very important because the camera will only accept 5V DC power. Any more voltage than that will fry it and cost you another $30 camera. Trust me, it's not a good feeling to realize that you accidentally ruined your camera and have to buy another one. That's why this instructable is here for you, so you can learn from my mistakes and save money...and probably some profanity as well.  :)

-Male to male RCA video adapter:

You'll need this because both the screen and the camera have female plugs for video and need to be connected. You can find one of these at Radioshack for around $5.

-Switches: You'll need a  switch for turning on the camera and screen and for turning on the infrared illuminator. Switches are cheap and usually only a buck or two a pop.

Tools/Hardware:

-Multimeter
-Screwdriver
-Soldering iron
-Solder
-Wire strippers/cutters
-Wire
-Heat shrink tubing
-Lighter or heat gun
-Electrical tape
-JB weld
-Hot glue/Hot glue gun
-Drill and bits or access to a drill press
-Dremel tool and cutting attachment
-Black spray paint

Enclosure: This step is completely up to you. I used several ABS project boxes in various sizes from my local Radioshack electronics store and mounted them together to create my enclosure. The sizes I used were 5x2.5x2", 6x3x2", and 8x4x2". You could probably use PVC pipe, wood, plastic containers, etc and it would work just fine.

Completely optional, I also used some cheap 3M full-seal chemical protection safety goggles (lab goggles) to make the faceplate of the viewer and to help prevent light from the LCD screen from leaking and giving my position away (as if the glowing red IR LED's weren't enough). Plus....it does improve the look of the finished unit a bit.  :)

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