Showing posts with label camera. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camera. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Turn a Canon camera into a Plant Health Analyzer using Public Lab's DIY Infragram

The "Infragram" project is a near-infrared imaging platform developed by the Public Lab community.   In this Instructable, we'll show you how you can use a cheap filter (available through Public Lab's recent Kickstarter) in order to modify an inexpensive point & shoot camera, turning it into a device capable of capturing capture "NDVI" imagery -- the same technology that NASA and farmers currently use to assess plant health.

This how-to focuses on a camera that is particularly easy to source and modify: the Canon A495 (the instructions will be identical for the A490).  You can buy a used version of this camera for around $50 or less on Amazon or Ebay.  

The main steps we'll need to accomplish are: a) remove the near-infrared blocking filter from in front of the camera's sensor, and b) add on a cheap "red-blocking" filter. 

Tools:

- A Canon A495 or A490
- A small phillips-head screwdriver
- A small strip of tape (most any type will do)
- A piece of Rosco #2007 filter paper (available from Public Lab right now via their Kickstarter, for $10)

Note:  if you'd rather not modify your own camera, Public Lab is also going to be producing a pre-assembled "point and shoot" camera -- you can sign up to get one by supporting their Kickstarter. 

Also note: this material is also explained very nicely in a Public Lab how-to video -- it'll be very useful to watch that video once before starting, and to use it as an accompanying guide for this Instructable. 

Warnings before you begin:

#1: There is a capacitor located deep inside the case of the camera.  Don't stick the screwdriver in random crevices of the camera -- you could receive a bad shock!

#2: It is very possible to ruin your camera's functionality by making a small mistake.  Don't do this with a camera that you'd really miss if something goes wrong ...

Okay, if you're ready  to modify your own Canon A495/0, let's begin!


View the original article here

Monday, October 28, 2013

How to make an entire drone and camera gimbal using laser cut parts


NEXT STEP, Photos of all the frames.
This step : design

When designing anything, you need a rough idea of how you want it to turn out, I usually have an idea in my mind but for some i recommend sketching and possibly taking measurements to figure out how you want the final model to look.

In this case, i took inspiration from the basic design of quadcopters, a simple x, but i felt that was too bland and so took parts from various frame designs and fashioned it into my frame.

I wanted something unique, that stood out not simply because of the material it was made from, but because of its design
In this case i wanted a dome to house the electronics and i wanted a unique looking set of arms that werent simply to hold the motors apart.

So i came up with this design.
(image 1)

I had made it to be relatively lightweight by removing large amounts of material (the helix design which is lots of squares cut out), but  still needed it to be strong so i made a honeycomb design that was the many little squares cut out.
This halved the weight of the model, but it also hugely increase the cutting time, which i has to pay for , the longer the time to cut, the higher the price tag.
Which meant i had to compromise, so for larger parts i cut large pieces out.

so i had a few things that needed to be factored into the design to make it a viable frame.

Airflow (the props had some of their thrust lost when blowing onto the arms, so i had to make them thin or i ha to allow air flow)

Length (the props lose efficiency when close to other props, so i needed the arms to be long but not ridiculous)

weight (the copter loses flight time with weight, so i had to make it as light as possible)

Time Cost (because i pay for time used on the cutter, i had to make the design relatively simple)

Material strength (i could not design outside of the materials strengths, it could not be ultra thin as it could snap, or oscilate causing bad flight performance)

With the above factored in, The design can go ahead.

the trick is to design part by part, rather than design it all in one go, in this case, i designed the sides of the arms before i designed the top/bottom or plates, the arm was designed to be two x the length of the propellor i would use, this ensures the props would not be too close to each other or the board.

I tried to make the design as unified as possible which meant as few joints as possible thus as few weaknesses as possible.
so now i had to make it 3d, which meant in between the two side plates i had to put somthing that spaced them.
I could have printed out lots of side plates and stuck them together, but it would have used huge amounts of material and would have been heavy, instead i used spacer plates that slotter in with finger joints.
There were just slightly wider than the motor mounts and were 3mm thick, one thing to note when designing how they fit together is make sure you know the thickness of the material you are using.

In this case i used 3mm MDF so the finger joints were 10mm long and 3mm wide.
I tried to make the spacers as long as possible to make assembly easier and reduce cutting time .
I also had to make the plate the motor would mount onto.
I used dedicated spacers for this and used two samwidged together for extra strength.
at the time i did not know where the motor mount holes would be, so i cut generic equally spaced holes.

I now had to make the holes in the side plate that the spacers would fit into, so i made a line of boxes 100mm ling, 3mm tll and spaced 5mm apart like the fingers on the spacer plates, i then took the template and placed it on top of the side plate in the position needed..
It was very simple to do and the end result was a clean design.
i did make sure that the holes where the spacer plate slid into, would not compromise other parts of the frame making it weaker.
, i now had he arm designed, but i need to think how i would fit 4 of them together, so i h to make two plates that would clamp to the bottom and top of the arms, to hold them in place securely, this was ver simple, i measured the space i had available on the top arm and make a square that was double the size.
I then put two "fingers" that poked out of the arm that would slot into the top plate.
, i then had to put holes in the top plate that would allow those fingers to slot in, as you can see in the photo i did just that but i forgot the arm was actually in 3d and at the time only put in one set of holes for each arm.

So i had to correct this which was simple. i just copied the holes and spaced them the correct distance apart..
Now that i had a top plate, i decided i would simply cut out two and stick one to the bottom in the same manner.

I now had to design the holes for fitting the flight controller, this was difficult as again i did not have the measurements of controller at the time, so i made a generic design that would supports lots of mounting points.
I also put in lots of holes for any extra wiring that would need to be slotted through.

I now had to think about the dome,  it would be too weak on its own, so i made a simple spacer that all the arms slotted into and make it far stronger.
the frame was now finished.

when i later cut it out and tried it, i found i had not completely thought out all the design, it was still a bit too heavy, the motor mount plate was a bit too weak and the dome needed strengthening.

So i took these ideas and proceeded to design many different frames, somewhere for fun and some were for practicality, you will see them all in the photos.

As you can see i have had a lot of fun designing the different frames, i have tried all sorts of designs, some for strength, some for practicality some for looks, some for nostalgia.

I have also included the image where i designed the frame and the image where i space it for the laser cutter bed.


View the original article here

Sunday, October 13, 2013

build shiney brass camera to use standard m42 lenses on posh medium format film!

so i wanted to use lenses for 35mm film on medium format film.not quite as straght forward as you might think, medium format film likes its lenses far away and 35mm film like to be close to its lens..i explored the possibility of making a panaramic shift and a blend, due to forces beyond my ability what i got is what it is.

here are some lists

material
brass from, car heater radiators,light switch faceplates, an exsecutive toy , part of a lens,some pipe ,a decorative plate and some clock parts.
some nuts and bolts
a lens mount
lead tin solder.
wire wool
fine sand paper
paint
polish wadding and paste
springs
gas
thinners
stainless rod
rubber bungs

tools
a lazer cutter would have been nice to get things accurate but i havnt got one so it wont be accurate.
blow torches large and small
tin snips
dremmel with cut off disks and sand drums
hammer
vice
pliers
rule
drivers
files
hacksaw
pipe cutter
paint brush

cost
gas £3
solder£10
decorative face plates£8 (b&q dont sell sheet brass)


View the original article here

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

hat side camera holder

_MG_0566.jpgI've bought this veeery cheap camera made in china, and obviously it lacks an angular holder for my hat... 
Luckily I'm a real genius, and after a long research and a lot of examinations, diagrams, computer simulations and testing I've came to the design of this high technological piece of engineering! With that gear I'm able to make my camera looking forward!! That's extraordinary!
... all right, I'm kidding, but because I'm not able to abandon a project halfway through, I'll go on ;-)_MG_0538.jpgAbout the camera I can't say here that it's a pitiful piece of technology, so please ask me in pm... whoops!! Anyway I never expected GoPro abilities for 1/30 of its price...
Oddly as you can see I've two holders for the camera, but neither of the two can be mounted on the cap in the right direction. Except screwing the base of the bigger one on the cap peak... but I don't want it permanent.

View the original article here