

This is the video of my portable amplifier speaker
(change the quality for a better view)
The sound quality of this circuit is pretty good.
OK, lets get started!
Tools:
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Hot glue
- Mini drill
- Pliers
- Cutter
- Helping hands (if you don't have it, you can build it from my helping hands instructable)
French seams are amazingly strong, so they're great for purses, totes, clothing and all sorts of home decor items! They're especially nice for clothes - no rough edges against the skin.
This is the easiest and quickest way I've found to do them - sewing 1/8 and then 1/4 inch seam allowances keeps you from having to spend time cutting extra fabric off, and also keeps you from having to account for a really large seam allowance.
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As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.
Materials: A sewing machine capable of twin-needle stitches (refer to your manual - as many sewing machines have this feature) Thread, scissors and material Extra Spool Pin Twin Needle - A stretch twin needle is recommended *wooly nylon thread - optional The first thing you should do is change out your standard needle and replace it with your twin needle. I loosened the standard needle with a small flat-head screwdriver. Once removed, I replaced it with the twin needle.
Next, remove your presser foot. You'll need to replace it with a zigzag foot. My zigzag foot came with my machine when I purchased it. If you aren't sure if you have one, please check your manual. To change a presser foot, my machine has a little button to push to remove/replace it.
The line stripper can be chucked into any power drill and be used to very quickly remove the line from a reel. Just wedge the end of the line between the two yogurt containers, turn on the drill, and remove as much line as you need to from your fishing reel. When you're done, just unscrew the wing nut. This allows you to separate the containers and the mass of line that has been wound there can than be easily removed
Attach a hex nut and a flat washer, as shown in the photo. Adjust the nut so that the amount of exposed thread remaining beyond the washer is 3/8". If you have chosen to cut your own thread into the end of a solid rod, then make the length of the thread such that 3/8" is exposed beyond the washer when the nut is screwed on completely. The advantage of this second method is that you will never have to adjust or measure the amount of exposed thread once you've made the spindle.
In this instructable I am taking you through the steps of making a Chess-board.
The wood used for the squares are Cherry and Norway Maple, the border is made from Norway maple. All of the wood used was harvested from local tress fallen during storms. After a really bad storm I ALWAYS drive around with a chainsaw offering to help and haul away some of their larger pieces (so glad I have a trailer).
The actual squares are 1-1/2" X 1-1/2". The whole board with the border is about 12-1/2" X12-1/2".
A Chess/Checker-board consists of 64 squares total (8 columns and 8 rows).
After a quick sketch and some math, I found a couple of boards. The boards I have are rough sawn 5/4 boards (VERY ROUGH).
Last time I broke a pair of glasses, I finally bought some online and was amazed at how much cheaper it was.So logically I link jumped to prescription goggles thinking they would also be cheaper--no luck. Then I thought to myself, "Self- Don't you already have a cheap pair of goggles from the costume shop and some broken glasses?" So this is my slapped together prescription goggles, to which I added a small spotlight and a magnifying lens. This is also a great way to get some more mileage out of broken glasses you had to pay good money for.
Goggles from a Costume Shop
Broken Glasses with Lenses Still Intact
Reflective concave cup part from broken flashlight
LED flashlight from broken cheapo multiscrewdriver that I stupidly tried to pry something open with.
Some small electric wire scavenged from various things
Stiff Bendable Craft wire
Old AM antenna. Actually I just used the old AM antenna for the plug at the end and the small electric wire- you can use anything that has those elements, I just have several because i find them a lot dumpster diving.
Tools
Pliers
Needle and Thread
Epoxy
Drill with small bit, roughly the diameter of the bendable wire
Hot Glue Gun
Hacksaw blade
Exacto Knife
- Saw
- Drill
- Screwdriver.
Materials.
- Wooden picture frame
- 25mm x 50mm wooden baton
- clear Perspex
- Mirrored Perspex.
- Glue.
- Paint.
- L brackets.
- Screws.
- Glue.
Now I'm sure that the barbecue/grilling fanatics will be howling in derision and insist that you run out and purchase a backyard smoker immediately, and yes, it's true, your meat will be smokier if you use a smoker but this recipe is truly delicious and what it lacks in smokiness it more than makes up for in compatibility with a normal person's lifestyle. Not to mention that the realities of living in a small city apartment make owning a smoker an unachievable fantasy for a large many of us.
(Unfortunately, because my guests were hungry they tore the finished products from my hand and I barely had time to take these blurry cell phone pictures of the almost-finished product let alone a manicured picture with perfect lighting and just the right amount of neatly placed dressing. Next time I make them though I'll get a better set of pictures of the final product and upload them)
It's worth noting in advance that this recipe requires some long cooking times, and in the case of the pork butt you can also do an overnight brine. We're going to be cooking the meat at a very low temperature for a long time (low and slow) to make sure that it's gets tender while still retaining as many of it's natural juices as possible. This is important to take into account when planning on having guests over so that the food is ready when everyone expects to eat. I usually stick the pork in the oven first thing in the morning 8-9am and the ribs around 12-1pm so that they're ready around 5pm.The tools used are:
- knife
- baking tray (glass/metal)
- baking paper
I've spent a lot of time trying out different variations for this pendant, and this one is my favorite so far. I already made several of those and I am planning to gift them on the next burn :)
General parts:
--20mm coin cell (Sparkfun[currently out of stock], Radioshack)
--20mm coin cell holder (Sparkfun, Radioshack)
--3mm LED (Sparkfun, Radioshack)
--Button (Sparkfun)
--Copper tape (Sparkfun, Amazon) or conductive ink (Bare Conductive)
Tools:
--Card stock paper or thin cardboard (I am using card stock throughout this instructable)
--Pencil
--Hobby knife or scissors
--Breadboard
--Jumper wires
--Soldering iron
--Solder
--Helping hands
--Multimeter (optional, for debugging)
Sensors (there are many possibilities):
--Photocell (Sparkfun, Radioshack)
--Thermistor (Sparkfun)
--Flex sensor (Sparkfun)
--Trimpot (Sparkfun)
--SoftPot (Sparkfun)
(The description of each sensor is in the next step, or check sparkfun for a better one.)
The arm is moved using a lever in the back and the wand is lit up with a 3mm LED. As the lever is pushed in it strikes the inside surface closing the circuit, thus turning on the light. I used conductive fabric for the contact points of the switch and conductive thread running between the LED, switch and battery. Alternatively, you could use conductive paint, tape or regular wire. The template is available in the next step as a pdf file, print full size on 8 1/2 by 11 (Letter) card stock.
Only nine (9) major sub-assemblies (including the two tiny rear landing gear housing!) makes up this mini Battlestar Galactica Colonial Viper Mk II. This should should be an easy build even for novice hobbyists.
The Viper Mk II was the main fighter spacecraft used by the Colonial Defense Forces against the Cylons in the 2003 remake of Battlestar Galactica. A Mk I from the 1978 series should also make for an interesting one-day build.
The only major challenge in this project was in fabricating the top engine and engine exhaust nozzle. The engine exhaust nozzle should fit snuggly inside the shaped housing at the rear end of the top engine.
I called him James in memory of my late Grandfather James Henry Edwards who passed away 14-3-2013. He loved teaching and helping kids and died doing what he loved, hopefully this James will carry on that legacy.
If you are looking to buy this Prototyping Shield search on ebay for “arduino prototype shield uno” and you should see it. Alternatively you can buy a similar looking one from Core Electronics: http://tinyurl.com/brxjx5h
I also have ordered spools of rope from Koch on Amazon: http://amzn.to/15MFPY3
You'll want to get the right size rope for your dog. A 1/2"-3/4" rope would be suitable for a little dog, while 1.5" rope works for very large dogs.
pic 2 is of the radio opened up. the radio runs off 9vdc. it has two battery connectors but both are wired in parallel. now is a good time to see if your radio works at all. do not exceed 9v input to the radio. you risk damaging some VERY hard to find transistors. this radio will power up with 6v-9v. you can use a regulated power supply or a 9v battery and alligator clips.
look at the old battery connectors coming out of the radio. on the connector at the end of the cable, the terminal at the very end (not where the wires come in to the connector) is the positive terminal. apply power, turn the radio on at full volume, and tune around. get anything? any sign of life is good. it's possible your radio may play loud, in that case back down on the volume control.
your radio should have a pictorial diagram inside like the one in pic 3. it may be of help here. on a humorous note, the pictorial diagram shows the transistors in transistor sockets. the actual production model just re-used the tube sockets.
are you getting lots of hash and noise but nothing intelligible? is the radio right next to a computer or lithium battery charger? those two things can generate plenty of RF noise on an AM radio. relocate the radio and try again or shut off the possible noise sources. try again.
get anything now? if your radio picks up anything, that's a good sign. tinny, weak, or distorted audio we can fix. if your radio is totally dead you may need to do some simple checks.
take a multimeter and check for continuity from the positive battery terminal to the metal radio chassis. the radio should be switched on for this test. like many early transistor radios, this one uses positive ground. you should have continuity. if you don't, you need to find out why.
look at the volume control. the power switch is built in. it's got two terminals grouped together. those are the power switch terminals. check for continuity here. you should have continuity when the radio is switched on. if you don't, your power switch is bad and that would cause a dead radio.
if you have a totally dead radio, there is still hope but you may want to consider the fact that your radio may have issues beyond the scope of this instructable.
next up, we get inside.
With the advent of digital music, it's all too easy just to send someone an iTunes gift card and song list. The physical aspect of the gift is lost, reduced to something that can't be seen or touched. As an expression of affection, I feel it's lacking.
I still want to make mixes for people. I love to give the gift of music. But I want it to be something they can hold, something real and tangible that they can take out and look at. A gift that has a physical presence. Thus, the MixDrive..
- a USB stick
- a cassette tape
- a craft knife
- a small screwdriver
- a permanent marker
- a tool for cutting the casing of the cassette (I will be using chisels- a rotary tool would be good for this step as well)
- electrical tape
- scissors
To Make A Label and Case Insert For Your MixDrive (Optional):
- High quality paper for your label and case insert (I am using some free samples of glossy photo paper that came with my last ink purchase.)
- a printer
- adhesive for paper/plastic bonding (I will be using rubber cement.)
- Creativity!
Now that we've assembled all the supplies we will need to make our MixDrives, let's get started, shall we?