How to Build a LEGO Organizer For Your Keys and Everyday Items

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K'NEX RBLTR V.1 (Red's Breach Loading Tactical Rifle) (Build)

This is my "Toy Rods and Connecters Contest" entry #1, the RBLTR (Red's Breach Loading Tactical Rifle). This is probably the most powerful K'NEX gun I have ever build, with range that reaches over 70 ft. It was a fun build, and is not at all piece consuming. It uses internals that closely resemble gtrain's G36C mech.

Some features of the gun are:
- Great range: 70 ft.
- Permanent fore-grip
- Nice sights
- Great pin pull
- Nice attachment bar
- Breach loading
- Shoots yellow rods

Now, lets move on to step #1...

In this first step you will be working on the right side of the main body, and part the internals. If you have any questions, please do ask. Keep in mind that you will want to read all of the image notes, they will help you.

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How to Build Your Own, More Powerful Version of Google Voice

Google hasn’t updated Voice in ages. Once heralded as the amazing service that would unify our phones, it now lags behind thanks to a lack of MMS support, decent voicemail transcripts, and a variety of usage quirks. With a few third-party apps and services, you can leave Voice behind, just like Google did, and have a better experience in the process.

Not only will this home-built option be more powerful than Google Voice, but all of these alternatives work outside the US, so international users can finally get the Voice features they've been wanting. It takes a bit of work to set up and there are a few differences, but overall it's an awesome way to manage all your calls and texts. Here's what you need to do.

Google Voice syncs your text messages to all your devices, so you can get them anywhere. Well, unless you get a message with a picture or video or one sent to a group. You really only have one alternative depending on your mobile platform.

Android has a variety of options, but one stands out as the definite best alternative to Google Voice’s synchronized text messages: MightyText. While advertised as iMessage for Android, you won’t find that terribly accurate if you’ve used both services. MightyText actually works a little differently than iMessage, plus it does more.

Install the Android app, which listens for new messages and syncs them to the MightyText service, then visit the MightyText webapp on any computer. MightyText offers a variety of other apps, like a native tablet app, a Chrome extension, and a Gmail extension that integrates SMS right into the interface. Unlike Google Voice, MightyText supports MMS in all its forms so you can receive multimedia and group messages. You must keep your phone on and connected to the internet in some way for MightyText to function, but so long as you meet those two requirements the service provides a great multi-platform texting experience at no cost whatsoever.

If you have an iPhone and a Mac, you can really only use iMessage. While a great service in theory—much like Google Voice—Apple failed to fix a lot of bugs and it doesn’t always work perfectly. On top of that, you can only get messages from other Apple users so you’re not really receiving texts that sync everywhere.

Alternatively, you can turn to a number of “free” texting apps that solve part of the problem. Textfree provides apps for iOS, Android, and the web so you can essentially access your text and picture messages from any device, and your friends don't need Textfree to receive them—it works just like SMS. MySMS can do the same. Neither service has a native desktop app like iMessage, but they provide a reasonable alternative to iMessage and Google Voice.

Google Voice truly handles one-to-many phone calling better than any other service. If you want people to call one number and have every phone you own ring all at the same time, you might want to simply stick with Google Voice for this feature then use MightyText (and any of the other services) alongside it. That said, you do have some alternatives.

If you want to pay business prices for enterprise level call forwarding, you can with RingCentral. While the service offers plenty of features, you probably don’t want to pay $25 per month for this when you can get it for free with Google Voice. You do get SMS messages with your number, along with plenty of other features, so this may appeal to people with deep pockets and a need for RingCentral’s other options.

Some services can forward from one number to another, which may prove sufficient for people who just want to receive out-of-state or international calls like local ones. Skype and Vonage both provide this option at a small cost. With Skype, you can even forward in the other direction by calling a number local to you that then dials any number around the world at Skype rates instead of your carrier’s much higher rates.

S

Google Voice has a hard time transcribing your voicemails. It may seem like it just can’t manage with poor call quality, but more often it creates ridiculous transcripts regardless of speech clarity. Let’s look at an example from a listener who called into the Ask Lifehacker Podcast:

Hey Lifehacker, I'm calling for a question My question is. You guys are going to poor your tutorial orange sources where I can look up at ability, Yes to wi-fi Network for like large public area, for example, let's see how hospital.

The message should’ve been:

Hey Lifehacker, I’m calling in with a question. My question is, do you guys have any tutorials or sources on how to build a guest Wi-Fi network in a large, public area? For example, a hospital.

To some extent, this isn’t Google’s fault. Computers can’t understand human voice very well. In fact, humans can’t understand human voice very well. We can, however, piece together the meaning of a sentence more easily when we don’t hear many of the words in it because we formulate similar sentences ourselves. As a result, you don’t want your voicemails transcribed by a computer but rather a service that uses actual humans.

Human-based voicemail transcription services cost money, but if you don’t receive a ton of voicemails you won’t pay very much each month. Personally, I only get about 10 messages per month since most people will just hang up and/or text nowadays. If you fall into the same category, you can use a service called CellScribe to get more accurate human transcriptions for $2 per month (up to 15 messages, and your first month is free). If you need more messages, you’ll pay $0.30 for each additional one or you can upgrade to a higher volume account for a greater monthly fee.

For the most part, you just need to sign up for an account to start using CellScribe. The page will ask you a few questions about your phone, provider, and how you want to receive messages. After you sign up, CellScribe will provide a page of specific instructions to set up your phone to receive voicemail transcripts. It will include a code you need to enter to configure your phone so CellScribe can intercept the messages. After that, you just need to record your voicemail greeting and you’re all set.

CellScribe provides more accurate transcriptions than Google Voice, but most any service will even without humans to help. If you don’t like CellScribe for whatever reason, try PhoneTag instead. Humans won’t transcribe your messages, but you’ll get better transcriptions than Google Voice currently provides.

S

All the apps and services mentioned in this post don’t fully replace Google Voice on their own. They replace most features in bits and pieces and improve upon them, but you might still wish for an all-in-one option. If you do, you have to make one sacrifice: your money. If you don’t mind paying a little bit for better service, you can sign up for a solution designed for businesses.

While you have a variety of options that handle most of the functions of Google Voice, only SendHub replaces just about every feature and adds a few. You can make calls via VOIP, send and receive text messages, get your voicemails transcribed pretty accurately (I confused the system by saying “onomatopoeia” but it understood everything else), choose your own number, and download apps for both Android and iOS (including tablets). SendHub currently does not support MMS messaging, but unlike Google Voice they have plans to add it and you can get notified when they do.

If you want to use SendHub instead of Google Voice, you can for free with some limitations. The basic account only allows 60 VOIP minutes and 500 text messages to non-SendHub numbers. You can upgrade and get much more, but it’ll cost you $25 per month at minimum. We think this option may work for some, but so long as SendHub doesn’t offer MMS you might as well stick with Google Voice and just outsource your voicemail transcriptions. Nevertheless, it provides a solid alternative for some.

Although a piecemeal option can feel a little like a poorly made chimera of third-party services, it provides you with options. If a better app or service comes along, you can replace what you currently use. If you still want to use Google Voice and just want one specific feature, you can implement just that feature. Hopefully someday Google will update Voice, rather than abandon it officially, but until then you can patch together a bunch of third-party options and make your own upgrade a reality.

Bananaphone by LEGEN -wait for it- DARY (Shutterstock).

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Hovercraft Everyone Can Build!

Hovercrafts are a great little project for those looking for something a little unusual. This is made out of materials you would find lying round home plus a couple of cheap easy to get electronics if you don't already have them. This hovercraft is capable of going over water, ice, snow, short grass, concrete and other hard surfaces.

Materials Chilly bin lid (for base) Plastic bags. (for skirt) Tape Hot glue Balsa wood Your choice of electronics (two motors with speed controllers and propellers, servo for steering, receiver and transmitter, and battery) thin plastic or plywood ( for bottom of hovercraft that directs the air to the skirt and rudders) assorted pieces of wire for control rods. Tools Craft knife Scissors Hot glue gun Sorry the video has the writing in the middle, my silly video editor.
The base is the lid of a polystyrene box that looked about the right size, it had a nice grove around the perimeter that i used to direct the air from inside the hovercraft, out into the surrounding skirt.
A thin layer of plastic was glued around the inside ridge so the air from the fan was directed though the groves cut out to the skirt, it also stopped water filling the skirt when the craft was moving forward.

To construct the Skirt plastic rubbish bags were cut out flat then into 150mm wide strips. Two half pieces of a pvc pipe with a 45 degree angle on the end were used as a template for cutting and taping the corners of the skirt together to get a clean shape, this isn't necessary but is useful. lastly a 20mm by 75mm hole was cut into the bottom plastic panel, this was to let air into the bottom of the hovercraft to make it hover, this could also be done by putting holes in the skirt, but i found this just as effective, and didn't make the skirt at risk to ripping.

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The Krotocam is a DIY Steadicam You Can Build On the Cheap

Nothing beats a Steadicam for capturing smooth video, but the commercially-available models can run for hundreds or thousands of dollars. But if you're willing to do a little work, you can build your own for small camcorders and dSLRs for about $30-40.

The video above from Krotoflik walks you through the entire process. Most of the parts you need won't be lying around your house, but they aren't too hard to find online. A collection of washers at the base serves as a customizable counterweight to keep your rig balanced, while a dollar store flashlight is used as a clever free-rotating gymbal. The finished product looks surprisingly professional, and the sample footage linked at the end of the video is very impressive for something so inexpensive.

If you love this idea, but want something a little more compact for a GoPro camera, Krotoflik also offers a modified tutorial for the Krotocam Mini. Whichever model you choose, the video you capture should be leaps and bounds smoother than anything you could get by shooting handheld.

How to Build the Krotocam (DIY Steadicam) | YouTube via DIY Photography

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Build a Cheap, Great Looking iPhone 5 Dock Out of Lego

Just because Apple doesn't make an iPhone 5 dock doesn't mean you have to spend a bunch of money on one. The designers over on the Daily Brick show you how to build your own dock using nothing but Lego, and it actually looks pretty solid.

The entire dock takes 42 Lego bricks, and you can buy the kit if you don't have the pieces. We've certainly seen our share of docks before, but this is a surprisingly solid looking (and incredibly cheap to build) dock for the iPhone 5. Head over to the Daily Brick for the full build instructions.

Build your own Lego iPhone 5 Dock | The Daily Brick via Hack a Day

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Jezebel George RR Martin Is Delighted by the Red Wedding Internet Meltdown | io9 How to Build an Arm

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Build a Paper Robobee Model

Have you ever seen miniature flying robotic insects in movies? That might sound like something completely out of science fiction, but believe it or not, engineers at the Harvard Microrobotics Lab are actually working on a bug-sized flying robot called the "RoboBee":
While this Instructable won't actually tell you how to build the real thing (which still requires a lot of expensive laboratory equipment), it will show you how to make a paper model of a RoboBee. This is something engineers in the lab do all the time - real RoboBees are pretty tiny, so having a larger paper model helps them think about mechanical design and how all the pieces will fit together.

The secret to making RoboBees involves using lasers to cut shapes out of flat materials, and then folding or "popping up" these flat shapes into three-dimensional structures. The following video by Pratheev Sreetharan provides a great introduction to the "pop-up" technique for building RoboBees. In this project, you'll be cutting out 2D parts and them folding them into 3D shapes by hand, so it won't be quite as automated as the process shown the video.

Materials

8.5"x11" sheet of cardstock. You need at least one, but can use different multi-colored sheets if you want. Regular construction paper will be too flimsy.  Craft glue (regular Elmer's glue will work fine) There are three options for cutting out the parts: Option 1: Xacto knife, cutting mat, and a steady hand Option 2: Electronic cutting tool (I used a Silhouette CAMEO) Option 3: Laser cutter, if you have access to one. Be sure to follow all proper safety procedures and do not use a laser cutter if you are not trained on its use - they can start fires or generate toxic fumes. Design file: available for download below as a .pdf or on Thingiverse as a .studio (proprietary format for the Silhouette CAMEO - Instructables wouldn't let me upload it). If I get enough requests I will redo the drawing as a .dxf or .dwg - so far I haven't been able to export these formats from Silhouette Studio (feature request in case anyone from Silhouette is reading this!). Optional: 2D CAD program, if you want to try out your own designs and are using an electronic cutting tool or laser cutter. There are multiple free options out there - I've used DraftSight (which was free last time I checked) and I believe you can also download a free student version of AutoCAD (may require creating an account). I know Autodesk has a bunch of new 123D apps, but I'm not sure if any of them are exclusively 2D programs that will output a dxf or dwg that you can use with a laser cutter.
Credits: These directions were written while I was a postdoctoral researcher in the Cornell Creative Machines Lab. The RoboBee project was started at the Harvard Microrobotics Lab. For more information and technical details about the project, you can check out the lab's publication page or YouTube channel. You can also check my personal publications page, which includes my Ph.D. thesis on body torque actuation. To see some more awesome engineering work on functional robots made out of laser-cut paper, check out the Berkeley Biomimetic Millisystems Lab.Before you start building a paper model, you're probably wondering how exactly a RoboBee works. Here is a really quick, layman's-terms explanation of the four main parts, which are labeled in the picture above. Airframe: this is the robot's "body". It's the rough equivalent of an insect's exoskeleton. Nothing super high-tech here - it's pretty much just a box made out of carbon fiber that holds all the other pieces together. Actuator: actuator is the engineering term for "thing that causes motion". In machines, actuators are usually motors or engines. In animals, actuators are muscles. In this case, the RoboBee is actually way too tiny for a motor - so we use a piezoelectric material, which deforms when an electrical voltage is applied to it. A piezoelectric beam bends back and forth as this voltage changes, acting like a "flight muscle". Transmission: this is another engineering term. The transmission converts the back-and-forth motion of the tip of the actuator (which is roughly moving in a straight line) to the rotational motion of the wings. It's hard to see in the picture here - this will make more sense when you build your paper model. For now, think of it like a linkage built out of LEGOs or K'Nex, if you've ever played with those. Wings: This is the most self-explanatory part. The wings flap back and forth to generate lift, which is what makes the RoboBee fly. More advanced versions of the RoboBee have multiple actuators to independently control the wings, which allows them to steer.

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How to Save Money When You Build Your Own PC

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Build this Easy, DIY Desk Lamp from Recycled Blank or Burned CDs

Remember when burning CDs was a thing, and everyone had stacks and stacks of blank or burned CDs stored on spindles? Well, if you still have some of those spindles and no need for the CDs anymore, this easy DIY project turns them into a fun desk or hanging lamp, perfect for your workspace or home office.

The project comes to us from the folks at Hack a Day's new Life.HackaDay page, and the video above does a great job of showing you how to build both types of lamps, the desk style and the hanging style. All you need in both cases is an under-counter LED strip-light, a ton of used CDs, and either some sturdy wire or a nice long rope to make it all work.

The whole process only takes a couple of minutes, and you won't even need any special tools. It's a fast and simple project, the end product doesn't look horrible, and a great way to put those spindles of blank or burned CDs you have lying around to good use. Hit the link below for more detail and photos of the finished product, all lit up so you can see what it would look like on your desk.

2 Minute Recycled CD Lamp. No Tools Required. | Life.HackaDay

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How To Build a Space-Saving Folding Desk From Scratch

You don't need a bunch of square footage to have a great workspace. As Instructables user Jake Richardson shows in this step-by-step folding desk tutorial, a little bit of creatively-used space can go a long way.

My room is fairly small, and it's a squeeze to fit things in. So when I found I needed a desk to do many of my projects, I had to think about space conservation. I decided to affix the desk to the side of my Ikea bookshelf. It's heavy, thick, and wide enough to attach a decent sized desk to.

The pieces of wood I needed were pretty easy to find—I just used scrap wood from my garage. I settled on a piece of 30cm by 75cm plywood for the actual desk and an 8cm piece of pine for the hinge brace.

I cut two 5cm-long pieces off of the strip of pine and nailed to the underside of the piece of plywood with fine nails. Then I sanded the pine blocks smooth before being attached, and used wood glue to strengthen the bond.

I stained the desk with a satin mahogany wood stain. Three layers were used, with a light sanding after the second layer. The third layer was a very light coating. Then I gave the desk three layers of tough polyurethane varnish. (As with the stain, I used two initial layers with a light sanding, followed by a final light layer.)

After the desk had ample time to cure, it was time to mount it to the side of the bookshelf. I used two brass door hinges, affixed with six steel screws each. I used a 1m-long, 3cm chain to hold the desk upright. The chain is hooked onto a small brass hook that's screwed onto the edge of the desk, while the other end is held in place at the top of the bookcase.

To finish the desk, I added a cutting surface that was also heatproof. I used a piece of slate tile that I cut to size and held in place with several lines of trade-standard Evo-Stik adhesive.

I now have a compact working space that can be folded away at a moment's notice!

(For a bonus tutorial on Jake's refurbished chair, check out the original post in the link below.)

Fold Out Desk From Scratch & Chair Refurbishment | Instructables

Jake Richardson is an 18-year-old, soon-to-be apprentice from North Yorkshire, England. He's a maker and fixer of all things, from retro electronics to model furniture, as well as an enthusiastic model-maker.

Want to see your work on Lifehacker? Email Tessa.

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Homemade Table Saw Sledge - Part 4 - Jig to build Tetrahedrons and Pyramids

In this build I made a jig which fits onto the table saw sledge with the intent of cutting sides to form a regular tetrahedrons and pyramids of various sizes.  I have to admit that the final jig in the video quickly left the realms of functionality because I based the design on the angles of a two dimensional triangle and needless to say I have now re-discovered Euclidean geometry.  That is to say, the dihedral angle of a three dimensional, regular tetrahedron is not the same as the angle of a two dimensional equilateral triangle.  While all the angles of a triangle equal to 180 degrees and that an equilateral triangle individual angle are 60, the angle between two faces of a tetrahedron is actually 70.5 degrees.  For a  pyramid this would be 109.5 degrees.

I haven't had to use pure mathematics for quite a while and we probably all know that in fabrication and woodworking there are many tricks to avoiding sums.  Had my table saw been one which allowed the blade to tilt, I could have compensated for my error but as it stands the gap left inside the tetrahedron is too wide and would probably require hot glue to join.

When I have time I will add a link to a correct sketch up model and write up a step by step with accurate angles.

In the short term, if you have the time to make one and don't fancy the maths, use an online calculator to work out your angles such as the one in the link bellow!

http://www.slyman.org/m_projects_mathematics_pyramids_polyhedra_intersurface_angle.php?alpha=60&n=4&p=45&submit_pyramid_parameter_calculator=Calculate

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How to Build the Essential Toolbox for Every Level of DIY

A well-equipped toolbox is essential for completing jobs around the home—everything from hanging a picture frame to putting together furniture or doing major home improvements. Here are the tools everyone should own, from the most minimalist toolbox to a kit for the experienced DIYer.

First, let's talk about how you're going to amass all these handy tools. Racking them all up at once could run you hundreds or even thousands of dollars. The smartest course is to buy the basic tools you need to have on hand just in case (screwdrivers and a wrench, for example—see the basic tools section below) and any additional ones you need for the project you're doing; then pick up others along the way with each new project. This will also help you buy the best quality tools you can buy—a necessity if you don't care for tools that snap or break after a few uses.

Wondering if you should rent or buy? If you're only going to use it once (like a floor sander), definitely rent. If you're likely to use it at least once a year, buy.

Look for sales (hello, Father's Day!) and refurbished tools; you can even buy power tools and more for cheap at government auctions. The suggestions for the basic toolbox below also make for great graduation or housewarming gifts.

Finally, remember to put your tools back in the same place, whether you store them in a simple drawer, an actual toolbox, or a full-fledged workshop. (Trust me, it's really no fun walking around your house wondering where your wrench is when a pipe is leaking.)

Here's what you should pick up, from the most basic to more advanced kits.

According to Clint Eastwood's character Walt Kowalski in the movie Gran Torino, you can do half of your household chores with just three things: WD-40, a vise grip (adjustable pliers), and a roll of duct tape. As the Art of Manliness points out, the vise grips can stand in for pliers, a pipe wrench, wire cutters, a clamp, a ratchet, and, in a pinch, a hammer. Meanwhile, WD-40 has over 2,000 handy uses, and you know duct tape is an essential tool for every would-be MacGyver.

These three things will cost you only about $15. For good measure, add in a quality multi-tool like one from Leatherman or a couple of screwdrivers and you've got a minimalist toolkit for most kinds of fixes.

Still, for the other half of your household jobs, most people will probably want to supplement with additional basic tools.

A universal toolbox should include these 10 essential tools:

Screwdriver set: From prying the lids off of paint cans to opening child-proof battery compartments, screwdrivers are must-have tools. Aim for flat- and Phillips-head screwdrivers in various sizes; you can often buy these in kits. Look for magnetic tips and comfortable grips to make screwing or unscrewing easier. See Art of Manliness' how to use a screwdriver for more about screwdrivers than you might care to know.

Claw Hammer: No toolbox would be complete without a solid hammer. One end is used to drive nails in, the other side to pull (usually bent) nails out of wood or a wall. Bob Vila recommends, in general, a hammer with a 16-inch handle weighing about one pound. Rubber, plastic, or vinyl handles offer shock absorption and a better grip.

Pliers: Locking, adjustable pliers also known as plier wrenches, lever-wrench pliers, and vise grips are very versatile. Because they lock in place, they can be used as a clamp, or, as mentioned above, in lieu of a wrench, wire cutter, or more. The Art of Manliness recommends a standard 5-10W size for this plier.

Adjustable Wrench: An adjustable, crescent wrench is like having multiple wrenches in one. You'll need one to tighten nuts and bolts and loosen plumbing fixtures.

Tape Measure: You might have heard the saying "measure twice, cut once." Well, you need a tape measure for that and to do other things like make sure furniture will fit in a room and measuring windows for blinds. Tape measures come in varying widths (from ½ inch to 1-inch), with the wider widths easier to support with one hand when extended. According to Vila, a ¾-inch wide, 16-foot long tape measure is a good size for most jobs.

Level: No more crookedly-hung photos! A level ensures you don't hang or install anything (including your flat-screen TV and shelves) less than horizontally perfect. In a pinch you could use one of many mobile apps that serve as a virtual level, but a longer 3- to 4-foot metal level (which can double as a straight edge) will go a long way. For hands-free leveling, a laser level is your friend.

Utility Knife: For opening boxes, sharpening pencils, and more, the utility knife is a toolbox workhorse. This Old House recommends buying one with built-in blade storage and rubber-covered handles for comfort.

Work Light or Flashlight: You'll need a flashlight for your emergency kit anyway, but you could get a dedicated LED light, head lamp, or work lamp to make sure you're sawing/screwing/nailing or otherwise DIYing correctly in low or no light.

Electric Drill: Although you can go without a drill for a while or resort to borrowing one when needed, sooner or later, most handypeople will need a drill—and after getting one, find it indispensable. Cordless drills are convenient for working anywhere, but the corded kinds cost less and don't require expensive battery replacements. Whichever type you get, an electric drill not only drills holes and drives screws, but, with different bits, also sands and grinds materials, stirs paint, and even super-powers your pepper production. Recently launched home shopping advice site Thesweethome recommends the 12-volt Porter-Cable Drill/Driver (about $86).

Hacksaw: A hacksaw cuts through wood and even metal and plastic pipes. Look for the kind you can easily replace with new blades.

Other: Though not your standard tools, a well-outfit toolbox should also include: safety goggles, work gloves, rags, pencil, superglue, and, of course, duct tape and WD-40.

Want a shopping shortcut? Thesweethome recommends the 76-piece Home Depot's HDX Homeowners Tool Kit ($30), which includes a hammer, 12-foot tape measure, screwdriver with 30 magnetized heads, allen wrenches, level, needle nose plier, utility knife, adjustable wrench, slip joint pliers, and light duty clamps. For a step up, with more and better quality tools (including hacksaw and drill bits), invest in the Denali 115-Piece Home repair Tool Kit ($55).

Level up with upgraded versions of the above tools, plus some inexpensive specialty tools for tackling more types of projects.

Stud Finder: A stud finder will help you secure shelves, cabinets, expensive TVs, etc. to studs in the wall—and avoid surprises when cutting into one.

Ratcheting screwdriver: This type of screwdriver locks into place when you turn it clockwise and loosens when you turn counter-clockwise, which lessens the stress on your wrist. Most store a variety of screwdriver heads in the handle and may also bend 90 degrees or more for greater versatility.

Set of pliers: Beyond the adjustable pliers, other pliers to pick up include needle-nose and wire-cutting (or diagonal) pliers, for more exacting gripping work (like fixing jewelry) or, well, cutting wire.

Socket Wrench: For large projects where you have to tighten or loosen many nuts and bolts, a socket wrench set with a ratcheting handle is the way to go.

Allen wrenches: Allen wrenches, a.k.a. allen keys or hex keys, are L-shaped tools used to drive bolts and screws with hexagonal sockets in the head. You'll often find these used in furniture kits and for bike repairs. Look for allen wrench kits in a range of sizes and both Imperial and metric measurements.

Pipe wrench: A pipe wrench, as the name implies, is used for turning plumbing pipes and other fittings. Although large-scale plumbing jobs are best left to the pros, you can save a bunch on small jobs like putting in a new faucet if you have the proper tools.

Putty knife: The putty knife, naturally, is for spreading putty (e.g., to patch holes in walls). Available with stiff or rigid blades, it can also be used to scrape off old paint or glue residue, pry up nails or can lids, clean paint smudges, and remove wallpaper.

Combination Square: When you want to make cuts that are at true 90-degree angles or otherwise precisely measure and mark the squareness of corners, you'll need a combination square. Wood Magazine recommends picking up both a 6" and a 12" combination square and lists eight ways you can use them.

Chisel: A set of sharp chisels comes in handy when you're working with wood or doing something like changing the deadbolt on your front door (where you need to carve out some part of the wall). There are many types of chisels, made for specialized purposes, but the basic design of them all is the same. See Galt Technology's chisel advice page, which recommends Dasco Pro and Stanley's Fat Max brands.

Crosscut Saw: The jack-of-all-trades saw (what most people imagine first when thinking of the classic saw shape), the crosscut saw is perfect for small jobs like cutting 2x4s and for cutting across wood grain. About.com's Home Repair site offers advice on different types of crosscut saws.

Other: Wood glue, plumber's putty, dust mask, voltage tester, wheelbarrow, shovel, rake, step ladder

Serious enthusiasts who do many projects around the house will want to invest in more specialized tools or more power tools to do everything more efficiently.

Crowbar: When you need to pry apart boards, remove stubborn nails, do some heavy lifting, or otherwise break things, reach for the crowbar, a.k.a., pry bar. A medium size bar between 2 to 3 feet might be best for most projects. For larger demolition projects, get a wrecking bar.

Rubber Mallet: A rubber mallet lets you hammer or tap without damaging the surface. It comes in handy when installing laminate flooring or ceramic tile, as well as other uses, and you can pick up a decent mid-range mallet for under $25.

Staple gun: A heavy-duty staple gun doesn't cost much (under $20) but has a broad range of applications: everything from roofing and upholstery to hobbies and crafts. It's like your standard office stapler but more powerful, and comes in manual and electric versions.

Circular Saw: One of the most common power tools today, the circular saw's toothed metal cutting disk cuts through masonry, tile, and steel. Prices range from $50 to $200. See This Old House's article for advice on selecting and using a circular saw.

Automatic Nailer: If you're going to be driving a whole lot of nails, a nail gun will help you save time and effort over using a hammer. Finish nailers are used to nail moldings and small trim boards (like baseboards), while brad nailers are for thinner or more delicate trim. Family Handyman says these two types of nail guns are complimentary, so if you can afford it, buy both a 15-gauge finish nailer and an 18-gauge brad nailer (together, they'll cost $300 to $550), otherwise a 16-gauge nail gun is a good compromise (ranging from $200 to $300).

Impact Driver: To fasten a lot of screws or drill a bunch of holes with speed and ease (for deck-building and other woodwork), an impact driver is a worthy investment (yes, even if you already have a fancy drill). They range in price from $90 to $300. See Popular Mechanics' review of 9 impact drivers for a cost/features comparison.

Cordless Dremel Rotary Tool: A Dremel (or other similar rotary tool) may not be a necessity, but it sure comes in handy for a great variety of applications. With different attachments, you can use the power tool for drilling, grinding, sanding, sawing, sharpening, routing, polishing, cleaning, carving, and engraving. It's like a toolbox in itself. This kit includes 30 accessories and is $80.

Table Saws, Miter Saws, and More: For more precise, specific cuts and slices, there are a slew of specialty saws for the handyperson. Bob Vila's Essential Tools for Woodworking lays out why you might want these saws and other items such as an air compressor, drill press, and table and belt sander. Expect to pay $500 to $1,500 (or much more) for the whole kit and caboodle.

Other: plumb bob or plumb line (a weight on a string for creating a vertical reference line), clamps to hold wood pieces together, sledgehammer, extension ladder, sawhorse or workbench

The lists above should certainly get your toolboxitude on and help you tackle just about any project around your home. For further inspiration (or just plain tools-gawking), check out MythBuster Adam Savage's list of 300 meticulously organized tools.

Photos by mtneer_man, Daren, and Mark Hunter.

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How to build a 3D-printed robot reindeer toy

3D Printing! Mold-making! Digital Rendering! Apoxie Sculpt!!! Woodshoppery! For this project Tina and I decided to try to learn about 3D printing and I'll show you what we learned and how we ended up making the toy. We were asked to make two robot reindeer toys as props for a Christmas film; one is a retro, 1970s robot and the other is the updated sleek modern version. The legs and head have slight articulation and the nose has a red blinking LED.

Also; I'm entering this build in the 3D Printing Contest. If you like it please vote (up there in the top right corner) I would LOVE to win a 3D printer - holy smokes, how awesome would that be????!

Here are the materials that I remember using:

SLS 3D printing
Foam block
Wood (3/4 ply, 2x4)
5/8 threaded rod
Epoxy glue
Spray paints and primers
Smooth-on Mold Star 30
Red tint
Solid Works
Patience

The first step in the build was figuring out what it would look like. I scratched out some possible shapes and designs in my sketchbook and ran them by the production designer. As it turned out he was taken with one of the doodles and we went ahead with that design without changing it too much (mostly the antlers and the addition of a rocket jet pack on it's back). I hired a 3D renderer (Brad Rothwell, who has submitted some great stuff here on Instructables) to make a Solid Works rendering that I could submit to the printers.

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