Friday, June 28, 2013
Good News and Bad News:
Good News: My chance came a few days ago and I bought a 70s Lloyds Solid State clock in an antiques flea market for a whopping $5.00 …could not pass it up.
Here comes the bad news - we brought it home and ended up falling in love with the clock radio so steampunking the item was out of the question and restoration became the priority.
The clock radio had a few issues:
1. Missing two knobs (possibly a future instructable):
a. Small timer knob on top of the case. I can live without it because
I can move the nub with my fingers and I won't need that option for
where it is going.
b. Knob for setting the time on the side of the case. I can live without
this one too for awhile because I can set the time without it.
2. Small scratches in the 100% pure fake plastic wood grain case
3. But most importantly a broken Flip Clock (that is what I will be working on)
The radio and alarm works.
For the mechanics, this Instructable will read like a diary. I feel that I can write a how-to on just the steps that I took to solve the clock issue and ignore the discovery phase or I can tell the painful truths with all of my embarrassing hits and misses as I work my way to a final solution or call me long winded.
I spent a good bit of time thinking about the hitch. My favorite part is using a short piece of automotive heater hose to wrap around the bike seat post. It flexes a little, absorbs small shocks, and attaches and removes quickly with no tools. I like it.
The trailer has a wooden frame with low-speed low-pressure wheels, slightly smaller than wheelbarrow wheels. They roll nicely and absorb minor shocks.
It's all connected by a long piece of black iron pipe, bent to the contours of the rear bike wheel and the bow of the kayak. And the pipe swivels in the frame so everything moves.
- Non-swivel pneumatic casters, 10 inch diameter wheels: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-pneumatic-rigid-caster-38943.html
- Black iron gas pipe, 10 ft length, 3/4 inch diameter: http://www.lowes.com/pd_313570-185-314+34X120_0__?Ntt=313570&UserSearch=313570&productId=3538958&rpp=32
- Automotive heater hose
- Misc timbers, metal, nuts, bolts, nails, fittings, etc.
- A hydraulic pipe bender was helpful: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
- Generic handyman tools: Drills, saws, wrenches, files, etc.
Load the SVG file in Inkscape (or the PDF in another program like Corel Draw) and add your own logo, name, or enhancements. The notches and spaces work well for 1/4W and similar-sized axial components.
Note that unless you get fancy with advanced print driver settings like Color Mapping, any text or logo you add will be engraved fairly deeply, since we're using the raster setting to cut a pocket for the component to sit in. If you want to cut a ton of these out, you can optimize things so any logos are engraved quickly at a high speed setting, and the pockets are cut at the slower speed (hence, deeper).
If you add or modify any paths that should be cut, remember that the Epilog print driver requires vector cuts be indicated by thin lines (e.g., 0.002”).