Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Start with the main fuselage beam, its purpose is to hold the elastic and be a bridge between the propeller and wings, as well as to the tail. It is very simple when cut from balsa, just a long rectangle strong enough to not snap when the elastic you will be using is put around it longitudinally. It can be any size, depending on how big you want your completed aeroplane to be. The fuselage beam on this one is 185mm x 1.6mm x 7mm.
Next is the basic construction of the drive system. Start this with the three new parts in the third picture, a small piece of wood (on my model about 6 x 8mm), wire/pin/straightened paperclip and a tube for it to fit into. Bend one end of the wire into a small hook just big enough to hold the elastic you will use later. To support this wire shaft, first glue the small rectangular piece of wood under the fuselage beam at the front end of it. Then glue the section of small tube under the block of wood. Slide the wire part into it to check that it can turn easily. Use picture 4 for reference to the placement of these parts.
After the above construction is complete, bend a rectangular piece of aluminium can into a tall "U" shape and glue it over the parts you just added. This will provide more strength.
For the tailhook assembly, I bent another piece of aluminium from a RedBull can in half and glued it around the aft end of the fuselage beam. You can do it like this or if you prefer, you can bend a piece of wire into a hook shape and glue it on underneath the fuselage in the same place.
To make the wing support, cut another piece of wood to 3 quarters the length of the main beam as shown in the second last picture. Divide this piece as shown in half, and then the one half in half again. Cut the 2 places you just marked and glue them in shape as shown in the last picture. Add small triangular pieces of wood at the two joins. Then glue this onto the fuselage beam about halfway along it. See the first picture for reference.
After I made the first test flight, I discovered that extra support at the base of the wing supports need reinforcing. Glue small rectangular pieces of wood on both sides of both joins to stop the wings from breaking off in-flight.
There are several reasons why you would want to (and should) backup your Evernote notebooks. The principle reason is because the current Evernote arrangement isn't actually a backup system, it's a syncing system. Your data is synced, rather efficiently at that, between your local devices and the Evernote servers. Syncing isn't backup though and, despite the fact that there are safeguards built into the Evernote software against this, in the absolutely worst case scenario that can befall any synchronized system, the remote file store can be wiped and the local file store can follow. The only way you can ever be absolutely beyond-a-doubt certain that your Evernote notebooks are really safe is if you back them up yourself.Luckily, the process of safeguarding your data isn't too complicated, and you have a few different options at your disposal. You can export your notes as Evernote ENEX files or HTML files right from the desktop app, which offers you a lot of flexibility if you accidentally delete just one note that you want to restore. Another option is to export your notes and metadata by finding the appropriate files in Windows Explorer or Finder and backing it up manually. This will preserve your tags and Notebook structure, but you can't pick and choose which data to restore; it's all or nothing. If you use Evernote primarily for file storage and syncing, you can also create a Dropbox backup of your imported attachments.This may seem pretty paranoid, but if you're like me, you'd be completely lost if your Evernote data went kaput. It's not that much work to create redundant backups, and as always, better safe than sorry. Be sure to hit up the source link for complete walkthroughs for all of How-To Geek's tactics. How to Backup Your Evernote Notebooks (Just in Case) | How-To Geek
Now, if even you're not worried about Evernote causing you a headache (and they certainly have a good record for data reliability and security), you should worry about yourself. There is no system in place powerful enough to protect you from accidentally or misguidedly deleting your own stuff. Once you drop the hammer on your own data, Evernote (like any other automated synchronization tool) isn't going to judge you, it's just going to carry out your orders and wipe your data. Without a backup, there's no restoring a notebook you trashed last week.
Downtown, traffic is often congested, parking is always expensive or problematic, and the Vespa is a very effective solution to both.
On holiday trips, I started to realize it is actually one of the best vehicles to discover the world :
* riding on a motorcycle (or bike) allows to experience the landscape and scenery in a more intense way (compared to car, bus, train,..)
* it's speed is slow enough to be able to experience everything, yet fast enough to make some progress through the day
* it's not too expensive
The only disadvantage or problem is that you can't really take a lot of luggage with you : there is a small rack at the back, but it only accomodates a small bag. In front of the driver is a hook, which will hold a small rucksack.
I really needed more storage, either for equipment on profesisonal jobs, or for camping gear during the holidays.
After seeing some examples of single-wheel trailers for bikes and scooters, I decided to make a multipurpose-trailer for my Vespa
Given the complexity of this project, and the safety (and road-legal) requirements, this was going to be a project which would take several months. Your needs and capabilities are likely to be different, and so you probably won't be able to build one yourself simply following this instructable. Still I hope that this story may help and inspire you to build one, some day.
Good luck & Hope to meet you on one of my trips one day !Requirements Meet legal requirements. They differ from country to country. Google is your friend, as well as the forums of local scooter or motorcycle clubs Safety : strong construction for worry free rides. Durable : must withstand Europe's roads and weather conditions. Payload : >100 liter of volume, and about 40 kg of weight. Legally, the trailer has a maximum weight of 50% of the vehicle towed by (150kg), so that means a total weight of max 75 kg. This led to the option of building it in Aluminum. Comfortable ride : should not limit maneuverability of the Vespa itself. Ideally it should feel as if there was no trailer being towed/ No permanent modifications made to the scooter. (in case I want to sell it some day.)
Parts list 12" wheel : I managed to buy one on ebay for 25 euro Faes Cases Defender Aluminium Case. I used a FA-74 type of 990mm*450mm*380mm (162 liter of volume) Aluminium tubes : 40mm*20mm*3mm 2 * 1050 mm 2 * 400 mm 2 * 360 mm 2 * 150 mm 2 * 380 mm 1 * 220 mm 2 * 255 mm Plywood : 980 mm * 440 mm * 12mm 2 x 4-function light block (rear light, braking light, turn indicator, license plate light) 3" caster. 2nd license plate
I can't be 100% exhaustive on the list of tools, but here are the most important ones Tape-measure, Caliper Steel carpenter's square Disc grinder Drill press AC TIG Welder Costs : total 500 euro = 650 $
Case : 300 euro Aluminium tubes : 70 euro Argon (TIG Welding gas consumed) : 20 euro Plywood : 5 euro Lights : 40 euro Caster : 15 euro Wheel (second hand - ebay) : 25 euro 2nd license plate : 25 euro
To get started on your own plushie animal, you will need the following:
Pen or Washable Marker
Optional: Buttons or Other Trim
I love Deviant Art, Sewing Support, All Crafts, or your local sewing or fabric store. This is a classic 1950s Teddy Bear Pattern that I adapted for asian style clothing. Since I was doing this for a party, I copied all the pattern pieces onto hard manila paper to stand-up to more abuse/greater accuracy. Also, if your pattern has notes for "on the fold" redo your pattern laying flat to prevent distortion. It's not good to use on the fold on small pattern pieces since this can be up to 1/4-1/2" variations which will kill the cuteness factor on small plushie animals to take them from something cute to something out of Tim Burton movie.
1) The dirt. Have it ready to use.
2) The hooks. Find the spot you will hang the tomato plant. The south side of your house is probably the best, as it will get the most sun if it isn't shaded. I drilled out the holes first.
3) Cardboard holders. These will keep your tomato plant in the bucket. I cut a couple of squares, approximately 4" x 4" or 10 cm x 10 cm. Then cut into the middle and make a hole that's big enough that your full grown tomato plant won't be squeezed.
4) The 5 gallon bucket. Cut a hole in the middle of the bottom, approximately 2" x 2", or 5 cm x 5cm. My technique was to drill a hole with my largest drill bit, and then get in there with some tin snips to do the cutting.
5) The tomato plant. Carefully remove from it's previous pot. Loosen up it's roots, removing all the extra dirt into your dirt supply. Gently work the roots in from the bottom, supporting the stem while you do. Now slip a piece of cardboard over the stem, on the inside of the bucket. Repeat with the second piece turned 90 degrees from the first. Many times they will wind up interlocking, which is cool but unnecessary.
6) The dirt part 2. FIRST CHECK THAT THE STEM IS CENTERED IN THE HOLE. Now for the hardest part, you will need to hold the plant with one hand (or find an assistant) and fill dirt in with the other.
7) Hang it up. Pat yourself on the back. Water, and enjoy tomatoes in a few months!
Two notes: I would rather do this with clay containers, but was in a hurry. Clay is better than plastic for plants, and because I did this in plastic it can't be called biodynamic.
If you want to know when to transplant, and discover all sorts of secret powers, check out the Stella Natura biodynamics calendar. I'm not associated with them, but think they are awesome.