Sunday, June 30, 2013
The instructions here are different from what I did in a couple places, because I realized after the fact a better/more efficient/etc way of doing it.
What You Need
Wood: I used mostly mahogany and poplar; but the pegs are oak dowels, the roll guard (not the real term, but I don't know what it's actually called) is pine; the lightbox, pivot plates and angle rings are plywood (obviously would be fancier with real wood); the bottom of the lightbox is pressboard
Glass or Plastic Sheet: 24x36" piece; glass is cheaper, but plastic--plexiglass, acrylic, etc--would be sturdier; if you do go plexiglass, you'll need a thicker piece than with glass, as it's not as stiff, and so will need to route out more of the top to make it flush
Light(s): I used a set of under-cabinet lights; might get more even illumination with a flourescent bar-type light
Spray-On Glass Frost: in addition to diffusing the light in the lightbox, this also gives the glass a decent enough texture to keep stuff from sliding around on the desk
Stain 1: a light color; this will be your base; I went with a "sunbleached" shade; you just need a small can of this and your other stain color
Stain: a darker color; I went with a burgandy; again, just need a small can
Shellac: I used an amber shellac, as it imparts a warm, aged look to the wood; you could substitute lacquer or polyurethane; you'll need enough for at least 2 coats, more if using a more porous wood (mahogant, oak, etc.) and wanting a very smooth finish
12 Small L-Braces: these are used to strengthen the pivot plates and angle rings
2 Wooden Knobs: these will be fixed to the angle rings' pegs
2 Small Chains, 6" each: these are fixed to the pivot plates' pegs
- Rain, snow and snow-shovels have left wornout, damaged and broken solar garden lights in the yard.
- Garden centers are running specials on new solar lights (I found several stores selling them for $1 each)
I managed to avoid throwing out several broken solar lights by using them to create some neat "Mason jar nightlights"...just charge them up during the day and they light the way at night.
I liked the results and noticed pre-made "Solar Mason Jars" are selling for $24.00 on Amazon and even "Solar Lid Lights" (just the lids) are $12. So I tried a few more variations with a few of the $1 solar lights and put together this Instructable so we can make our own!
This Instructable describes how to create either style of Solar Mason Jar Nightlight (from salvaged or new solar lights)
We'll start with the "new light" variation, it's a pretty easy project!
What's Needed for this Instructable:
Solar Garden Lights - either salvaged or new - you know the type, typically a cylinder on a stick with the solar panel on top Mason Jar, Band and Lid - I used small Half Pint (8oz) Kerr brand decorative jelly jars, but any canning jar will work. Frosted Glass spray paint - I used Rust-Oleum brand. NiCad batteries - the damaged lights generally have rusty worn-out batteries, typically AA. Even new budget lights occasionally need new batteries. (found these at Harbor Freight store). If you have a charger you can try re-freshening old batteries with that. Something to cut with - I used a Dremmel, X-Acto, Tin snips and even a bench-grinder depending on how well a particular light fit into the jar. Glue or Hot Glue gun Screwdriver - often required to access dead batteries Optional: Soldering Iron and Solder - damaged lights will likely need some repair, however new lights shouldn't require soldering Vice or clamps Colored Spray Paint - I had some sparkly blue auto paint around so added a light coat of blue to a few,
I like the blue color a lot! Just go light on the paint, I made one that is really just too dark.
Let's make some!Bargain solar lights are either:
- larger than the 2.25" opening of the Mason jar
- smaller than the opening in the Mason Jar
Larger: The first style I tried was (on clearance from 4th of July) just a touch larger than the opening. Easy enough to detach the blue top section from it's plastic post (not shown here). Next to make things fit I simply had to cut the sides of the light off using the dremmel and a tin snips.
This particular size light worked really well because no rewiring, cutting of the lid or even gluing of the lid was needed. I found these at Menards for $1 ...think I better go back for some more!
Smaller - Here because the solar panel itself is so small it would slip through the jar "band". I had to cut a hole in the lid, and then glue the light to the lid.
(another solution might be to copy the size of the lid out of something easier to cut, plastic (like the top of a Skippy jar maybe) or wood. I haven't tried this technique yet)
I cut the lid hole 2 different ways:
- Marked a square on the lid and used the Dremmel to cut the opening.
- I also used a hole-saw to create a round hole. The hole-saw technique is easier, but partially blocks the solar panel.
Another problem with the smaller size light: the battery inside was a 1/2 AA...looked like a AA only half the length. I couldn't find a replacement so I made my own battery holder from spare cardboard and used the AA size...see the images below.
The heart measures 1.5" x 1.5". It's a good size for a keyring to use around the house, eg for a window key or a cupboard key. It would also make a neat handbag charm. The contrasting inlay is in the front only, the back is plain.
You will need (for 4 keyrings)
A 4" x 4" piece of leather in each of 2 colours
Four 1/2" diameter split rings
Rubber cement or other glue suitable for leather (the glue from a puncture repair kit will do)
A craft knife or Stanley knife
A metal straight edge
A bulldog clip or clothes peg (clothespin)
The thickness of the leather doesn't matter much, but the 2 colours should be of approximately the same weight.
You can use my design of a heart with a little star cut out of it, or create your own. Step 1 explains how to make a design of your own suitable for laser cutting.
For anyone who wants to create their own design, here is how I did it.Open up Inkscape (which is open source and free) and explore the shapes that can be created within it, like circles, ovals, stars and polygons. If you find something there that you like, fine, go ahead and draw it. The shape needs to be one that will work as a keyfob with a hanging loop, so an oval, circle or hexagon would be good, a star less good. If you want a more complicated shape like a heart or a flower, it's easier to find a suitable image on the internet or draw one using other software like Gimp or even Word - try Insert, Shapes in Word. Copy the image (click on it and then Control-C, or else right click and choose Copy), then open up Inkscape and paste the image (Control-V). Add a smaller cut-out shape in the middle of the first shape. Do this either within Inkscape or by pasting a new image on top. When you have it the size you want it and in the right position, group the 2 shapes by clicking to select the larger shape first, then hold down Shift while clicking to select the smaller shape. With both selected, click Object, Group. Test it has worked by dragging the shapes and checking they move together. Recolourise to make the outer shape one colour and the inner shape white, like the background. Now you need to convert the image to a vector that the laser beam can follow. With the image selected, click Path, Trace Bitmap. In the Mode tab, tick Brightness Cutoff and then OK. Nothing will seem to have happened, but drag the new image off the old one, delete the old one and then drag the new one back again. In Object, Fill and Stroke, set Fill to no paint, Stroke paint to black and solid colour, Stroke Style width to 0.01mm. Copy the larger shape as many times as you need it, with and without the smaller insert, and fit them together to make efficient use of the leather. Change the size to suit the leather you have available and the size of keyring you want to make. Save as a PDF file, or print to a PDF.
- corset - If you would like to make it by yourself, see "How to make a corset (quick +easy)"
- hot glue
- feathers (very soft)
- bias tape
- satin tape
Saturday, June 29, 2013
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 stick softened butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup flour
1/3 cup cocoa
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup semi or bitter sweet chocolate chips
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons boiling water
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon peppermint extract
You can use white sugar for these, but they won't taste as amazing. The brown sugar really gives them extra oomph. :D
You'll also need an oven preheated to 350 F and a baking sheet with parchment paper lining it.
-Strips of adhesive velcro (more than is pictured)
-Ink pad (used in stamping)
-foam letters (if you have a laser cutter or 3D printer, these are not necessary)
-1/2 inch bolt (approx. 5 inches)
-1/2 inch nut
-12 wood screws approx. 1/2 inch long
-Wood saw (unnecessary if you have a laser-cutter)
-Hot glue gun
-Drill bit for 1/2 inch long wood screws
- 1 package of frozen won ton leaves (you could also make them yourself, but the frozen ones are nice and so much less work)
- 200 g of ground pork
- 1 garlic clove
- slice of ginger, about 2 cm long
- 1 teasponn sesame oil (forgot it on the picture)
- 1 teaspoon rice wine / sake
- 1 egg
- salt & pepper
if you'll going to make the fried won ton you will also need:
- neutral oil for frying
for the chilli dip sauce:
- 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon chilli oil
- 1 tablespoon rice vinegar or neutral wine vinegar if you have no rice vinegar
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground sichuan pepper
- 1 small peeled and chopped garlic clove
- some chopped chives
if you'll going to make the won ton noodle soup you will also need:
- chicken or vegetable broth (instant or homemade)
- thin chinese noodles
- 1 carrot
- a handfull of fresh spinach leaves
- sesame oil
- some chopped chives
Friday, June 28, 2013
Good News and Bad News:
Good News: My chance came a few days ago and I bought a 70s Lloyds Solid State clock in an antiques flea market for a whopping $5.00 …could not pass it up.
Here comes the bad news - we brought it home and ended up falling in love with the clock radio so steampunking the item was out of the question and restoration became the priority.
The clock radio had a few issues:
1. Missing two knobs (possibly a future instructable):
a. Small timer knob on top of the case. I can live without it because
I can move the nub with my fingers and I won't need that option for
where it is going.
b. Knob for setting the time on the side of the case. I can live without
this one too for awhile because I can set the time without it.
2. Small scratches in the 100% pure fake plastic wood grain case
3. But most importantly a broken Flip Clock (that is what I will be working on)
The radio and alarm works.
For the mechanics, this Instructable will read like a diary. I feel that I can write a how-to on just the steps that I took to solve the clock issue and ignore the discovery phase or I can tell the painful truths with all of my embarrassing hits and misses as I work my way to a final solution or call me long winded.
I spent a good bit of time thinking about the hitch. My favorite part is using a short piece of automotive heater hose to wrap around the bike seat post. It flexes a little, absorbs small shocks, and attaches and removes quickly with no tools. I like it.
The trailer has a wooden frame with low-speed low-pressure wheels, slightly smaller than wheelbarrow wheels. They roll nicely and absorb minor shocks.
It's all connected by a long piece of black iron pipe, bent to the contours of the rear bike wheel and the bow of the kayak. And the pipe swivels in the frame so everything moves.
- Non-swivel pneumatic casters, 10 inch diameter wheels: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-pneumatic-rigid-caster-38943.html
- Black iron gas pipe, 10 ft length, 3/4 inch diameter: http://www.lowes.com/pd_313570-185-314+34X120_0__?Ntt=313570&UserSearch=313570&productId=3538958&rpp=32
- Automotive heater hose
- Misc timbers, metal, nuts, bolts, nails, fittings, etc.
- A hydraulic pipe bender was helpful: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
- Generic handyman tools: Drills, saws, wrenches, files, etc.
Load the SVG file in Inkscape (or the PDF in another program like Corel Draw) and add your own logo, name, or enhancements. The notches and spaces work well for 1/4W and similar-sized axial components.
Note that unless you get fancy with advanced print driver settings like Color Mapping, any text or logo you add will be engraved fairly deeply, since we're using the raster setting to cut a pocket for the component to sit in. If you want to cut a ton of these out, you can optimize things so any logos are engraved quickly at a high speed setting, and the pockets are cut at the slower speed (hence, deeper).
If you add or modify any paths that should be cut, remember that the Epilog print driver requires vector cuts be indicated by thin lines (e.g., 0.002”).
Thursday, June 27, 2013
1. NES Controller.
The one that I used didn't work anymore. You can purchase these from Ebay
2. 3 AAA rechargeable batteries
3. 5.5v solar panel - Ebay
4. Clear 5mm LED lights - Ebay
5. Mercury switch - Ebay
6. Rear bike light.
I found this one on the ground! You can buy them though from Ebay for dirt cheap. The one that I have linked to is a 9 LED, the one I used had 7.
7. Computer wire. Pulled from an old PC
8. Casting Resin. purchased from my local hardware store
9. Mould. - Ebay
1. Soldering Iron
4. Hot Glue
7. Stanlley knife.
This instructable will show you how to create a solar powered plane. This project was done at Newman Smith HS in Carrollton, Texas and was sponsored by the Texas A&M Aerospace Engineering Department. We received most of the needed parts from Texas A&M and built the plane for the High School Solar Plane Competition on May 25, 2013. The project is not for the beginner as it gets a bit complicated. Skills that you will need include soldering skills, plane building skills, monokoting skills, and general R/C plane knowledge. Our team ended up with the Most Creative award and 2nd place in Endurance.
Special Thanks to Texas A&M, NSHS Teachers & the DIY Drones Community (http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/solar-powered-plane).
Below are some pictures of the completed project. The next step will be the list of materials needed.
Also included below is the link for build basics and aircraft aerodynamics- there are two PowerPoints included by Texas A&M. If you are going to do the project, printing out these two PowerPoints will help you immensely. However, please take note that all the cells must be in series, not in parallel as one of the PowerPoint presentations describes.
Want to see more photos? PM me and I'll give you a link.Materials Needed:
Glider (we used the Gentle Lady)
Monokote (We ended up using about 3 rolls- two for the 8 foot wing [bottom] & body of the plane and another clear roll for the panels)
3x6 Solar Panels
Nylon Control Horns
ESC (Electronic Speed Controller)
Connectors (for Wires)
Heat Shrink Tubing
Pairing Connector (depends on your transmitter/receiver)
Nuts (for balancing wing)
Balsa Wood Sheets (optional- depends on how big your wing is)
Hobby Knife and extra blades
First Aid Kit
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
2 - 2"x6"x 6'
2 - 2"x4"x 6'
2 - 3/4"x 4'x 8' Sheets of plywood (AB or AC (depends on the wood grain you want to see and how much money you have))
1 - 1/2"x 4'x 8' Sheet of plywood (AB or AC (depends on the wood grain you want to see and how much money you have))
8 - 1/2"x 3"x 6' Pieces of lumber (or something that can be made to that size of wood (eg. 1/2 Plywood))
1 lb box of 8x2" Screws
16 gallon wet/dry craftsman shopvac cage float (image later) this was an easy way to make the light on top since we had one laying around from an old shopvac.
Plastic Water Bottle
Acrylic sheets(got custom cut at a shop in Topeka KS)
Black spray paint(must be made for plastics)
BEHR Premium Plus Sapphire Lace Paint in Eggshell (1 Gallon)
Valspar Signature Golden Flame in Semi-Gloss (1 quart)
Clear Gloss Defthane Spray (for protection of PULL TO OPEN sign)
3" c/c Wire Pull (small handle)
Black Pull Handle
2 - Malamine edge ironon 3/4 x 8 White
1 - Malamine 3/4" Sheet 4'x 8'
1 - Door catch (metal hook type)
1 - Magnetic Door Catch
1 can of Spray adhesive
1 can of fixative
6 - Blum 95 Degree Thick Door Clip Top Frameless Inset Hinges
2 - Small hinges
1"x18 gauge Brad nails
A small Metal Bowl or some other rounded object to use as the top of the top light
2 - MicroSwitches with lever
6 - Terminal connectors (depends on switch size (used to hook up the switch without solder))
Arduino Uno or Other Compatible system (I used the Iduino Uno)
ElecHouse MP3 Shield (Image Later)
1 GB SD Card
5 Meter roll of cutable LED Strip
16' Extension Cord (for Power)
1 Outlet Box and Outlet
2 Adapters (12V 120 - 300 Ma and an arduino compatible Power cord (look At Arduino website)
4 or more 1/2"x2 gauge brass screws (to hold the switches)
Two NPN Transistors (pn2222 or other small one that can handle more than or equal to 12V)
A small BreadBoard 300 or more points of connection
20 ft. of telephone wire (approximately)
I decided to make an air piano which is based upon cap-sense and the arduino.
Aluminum tape or aluminum foil Some wires 8 10M Ohm resistors Piezo buzzer Arduino 9V battery or USB cable
Basically, there are square pieces of aluminum tape stuck onto a thick card which is attached to a jumper cable and a resistor, 8 replicas of this are made, then all the other ends of the resistors are attached together and to pin3 of the arduino, this will act as the common base pin for all the sensors. The resistor values can be 2M or 10M or 40M Ohm. 2M Ohm will make it so that it only senses when you press on the aluminum tape, 10M Ohm resistor makes it so that your hand can be sensed at a little height of 2-4cm or so and 40M Ohm will sense quite a bit further, but it gets a little messy as if the aluminum tape pieces are too close together then at that height interference occurs therefore other keys might get pressed. If you want to use this 40M Ohm version then you have to make sure to place the aluminum tape pieces a little far away from each other.
I used 10M Ohm for my device and it works perfectly when I wave my hand over the note I want to use.
(I have heard that we can also use resistive sensing instead of capacitive but I'm not exactly sure how it works.)
For more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitive_sensing
Our topic at the moment is Africa, and what better to design and make with textiles than a hand puppet? So, here goes!
Tools you'll need
- Sharp scissors (especially important if you're doing this with children)
- A large needle (helps with drawing thread through holes)
- Permanent marker pen (bullet tip sharpie works well)
Materials you'll need
- 1 piece of dark brown felt (50cm x 30cm)
- 1 piece of light brown felt (20cm x 30xm)
- ~1m Dark brown embroidery thread
- Tacky glue (I found Bostik All Purpose glue worked very well)
Now you've got your tools and materials, let's get started!
Take for example these lock levers from my 1962 Valiant. The originals are a diecast aluminium and feature a very fine spline. I doubt they would be able to be manufactured any other way. Even with CNC machining I imagine the part would have to be made in two pieces if it was possible at all.
The replacements were needed due to an oversight on my part. I had made some lovely new door trims for my the Valiant. The fronts turned out so well i went ahead and made the rears to match. However in my enthusiasm I did not take into account the lock levers which only feature on the rears. Show here is the locking lever spline protruding through the trim baseboard before trim, and after I had finished the trim with the padding. No spline protrudes and therefore the original lock levers do not fit. So how to fix this without remaking the whole door trims?
3D printing to the rescue!
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Start with the main fuselage beam, its purpose is to hold the elastic and be a bridge between the propeller and wings, as well as to the tail. It is very simple when cut from balsa, just a long rectangle strong enough to not snap when the elastic you will be using is put around it longitudinally. It can be any size, depending on how big you want your completed aeroplane to be. The fuselage beam on this one is 185mm x 1.6mm x 7mm.
Next is the basic construction of the drive system. Start this with the three new parts in the third picture, a small piece of wood (on my model about 6 x 8mm), wire/pin/straightened paperclip and a tube for it to fit into. Bend one end of the wire into a small hook just big enough to hold the elastic you will use later. To support this wire shaft, first glue the small rectangular piece of wood under the fuselage beam at the front end of it. Then glue the section of small tube under the block of wood. Slide the wire part into it to check that it can turn easily. Use picture 4 for reference to the placement of these parts.
After the above construction is complete, bend a rectangular piece of aluminium can into a tall "U" shape and glue it over the parts you just added. This will provide more strength.
For the tailhook assembly, I bent another piece of aluminium from a RedBull can in half and glued it around the aft end of the fuselage beam. You can do it like this or if you prefer, you can bend a piece of wire into a hook shape and glue it on underneath the fuselage in the same place.
To make the wing support, cut another piece of wood to 3 quarters the length of the main beam as shown in the second last picture. Divide this piece as shown in half, and then the one half in half again. Cut the 2 places you just marked and glue them in shape as shown in the last picture. Add small triangular pieces of wood at the two joins. Then glue this onto the fuselage beam about halfway along it. See the first picture for reference.
After I made the first test flight, I discovered that extra support at the base of the wing supports need reinforcing. Glue small rectangular pieces of wood on both sides of both joins to stop the wings from breaking off in-flight.
There are several reasons why you would want to (and should) backup your Evernote notebooks. The principle reason is because the current Evernote arrangement isn't actually a backup system, it's a syncing system. Your data is synced, rather efficiently at that, between your local devices and the Evernote servers. Syncing isn't backup though and, despite the fact that there are safeguards built into the Evernote software against this, in the absolutely worst case scenario that can befall any synchronized system, the remote file store can be wiped and the local file store can follow. The only way you can ever be absolutely beyond-a-doubt certain that your Evernote notebooks are really safe is if you back them up yourself.Luckily, the process of safeguarding your data isn't too complicated, and you have a few different options at your disposal. You can export your notes as Evernote ENEX files or HTML files right from the desktop app, which offers you a lot of flexibility if you accidentally delete just one note that you want to restore. Another option is to export your notes and metadata by finding the appropriate files in Windows Explorer or Finder and backing it up manually. This will preserve your tags and Notebook structure, but you can't pick and choose which data to restore; it's all or nothing. If you use Evernote primarily for file storage and syncing, you can also create a Dropbox backup of your imported attachments.This may seem pretty paranoid, but if you're like me, you'd be completely lost if your Evernote data went kaput. It's not that much work to create redundant backups, and as always, better safe than sorry. Be sure to hit up the source link for complete walkthroughs for all of How-To Geek's tactics. How to Backup Your Evernote Notebooks (Just in Case) | How-To Geek
Now, if even you're not worried about Evernote causing you a headache (and they certainly have a good record for data reliability and security), you should worry about yourself. There is no system in place powerful enough to protect you from accidentally or misguidedly deleting your own stuff. Once you drop the hammer on your own data, Evernote (like any other automated synchronization tool) isn't going to judge you, it's just going to carry out your orders and wipe your data. Without a backup, there's no restoring a notebook you trashed last week.