So when crafting your apology, remember to ask yourself the following: Who am I talking to, and what is he or she looking for in my apology? The guy on the subway still dripping from your morning joe doesn't want to hear that you "feel his pain"—but when you forget your wife's birthday, she most definitely would like you to feel hers.The Most Effective Ways to Make It Right When You Screw Up | Harvard Business Review
Monday, November 4, 2013
What is it? It's a thick vinyl strip secured to the cell phone that allows: Single handed, yet secure touch usage Quick car mount by sliding into an unused CD player slot Prevents it from sliding off surfaces like dashboards Makes it easy to fish out of pockets Muffles the vibrating sound when placed on hard surfaces Doubles as a night stand I experimented with different materials like leather for the flap, but heavy vinyl worked best. It's soft, grippy, holds it's shape and is the right amount of rigid.
The hack is fairly easy. Attach a small strip of thick vinyl to the back of a cell phone cover. There might be multiple ways to do this, but here's my approach.
Warning: You must be able to remove the back panel to do this hack. NEVER expose cellphone batteries to heat. They tend to explode fiery acid. If you cannot remove the back panel from your phone DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS modification.- Cellphone with a removable back panel
- Vinyl strip somewhere around 2.0 - 2.5mm thickness at least the size of the cell phone.
My source: TAP Plastics
- Polycaprolactone (PCL) plastic like InstaMorph, ShapeLock or Amaco's Friendly Plastic which comes in colors
My source: Amazon (black "Friendly Plastic")
Used as "glue" to attach the vinyl to the back of the phone.
My Source: Radio Shack Digital Soldering Station (variable temperature)
- Heat gun
My source: amazon, Milwaukee 8988-20 Variable Temperature Heat Gun is awesome
- Straight piece of thick wire. Like a snipped hanger (for finding center of cellphone)
- Razor or box knife (for scoring plastic)
This tutorial will actually yield two different bracelets or anklets (or one of each). There will be a stopping point at which time you can close up shop and be done with a more "simplified" version of this (no button, thinner, but with seed beads), or you can continue on with the last few steps and get one more like what's pictured here. The choice is yours!
All you need for this project are: scissors, about 30' hemp cord, seed beads, very cool button, "I" crochet hook, yarn needle, glue, and 2 optional beads (for the ties).
by Rachel at TLC InspirationsFold your 30' piece of hemp cord in half, then take one of the cut ends and put a very thin layer of glue on, using your fingers. We're talking about a drop here, folks! Use a twisting motion going with the direction of the hemp fibers, when applying, so that it creates a point. We're doing this to make it easier to slide on your beads, otherwise the hemp fibers will fray apart, making it impossible to strand anything on there.
Just use regular white glue or something similar. It should dry fairly quickly.
They turned out pretty good and the client was happy, but they were never perfect enough for my tastes. It's difficult to get the machined look with hand tools and almost impossible to engrave graphics which is a distinctive feature of these guns.For the new version, I refined the detail in Adobe Illustrator and planned out the parts so they could be built using layers of laser-cut MDF. This would allow for maximum accuracy as well as the engraving on the barrels.
The body of each gun was cut from 3 pieces of 1/4" MDF, with a gap in the middle section for a trigger and hammer, which were also cut from 1/4" MDF. I also left a gap in the middle section for a faux barrel. Raised areas like the side of the slides were cut from 1/8" MDF.
After 20 minutes of taking measurements off of someone's A5-Lux, I had all the dimensions I needed to do another round of sketches. Then I moved to Google SketchUp and made a full 3D model. Even though the nitty-gritty construction details were not 100% accurate in the SketchUp model, I used the model to figure out the different stock aluminum I needed, and specific cut lengths for some pieces.
Later on in the build (about 5 months later) I learned SolidWorks in an engineering class. By this time in the build, I had most of the pieces made, so making an accurate model was much easier this time around. I used this model to figure out the exact length and placement of the "folding support bar", but I'll get into that later. However, I'll open each step from now on with a picture of the part from the Solid Works model.
Once I had my SketchUp model, I made a materials list and ordered all of the aluminum from Online Metals. I also took time to figure out generic screw sizes, and ordered these from McMaster-Carr.com. I used mostly 8-32 socket-head and 8-32 button-head, with several 5-40 button-head screws for the little things.
I was originally going to purchase the replacement 8 inch A5-Lux wheels from the Razor store, however, I decided against it after I found out they were back ordered and 60 dollars. After much online research, I found that large wheel-chair casters are cheap, durable, and pretty available. I got two 8 inch wheels from some guy on eBay for less then 20 dollars.
Early on I decided I wanted the deck to be clear acrylic, so I also ordered a piece of 1/4 clear-green acrylic from E-Street Plastics. I'll use my school's laser cutter to cut out the deck. Laser cutting acrylic is great because it likes to crack and chip when you machine / cut it with regular saws, and the laser cutting also 'flame polishes' the edge when it cuts it, so it's just an all-around great way to cut acrylic!