Tuesday, July 23, 2013
3-4 baked potatoes, cold
12 medium (preferred) or large eggs
1 bunch chives or dill (your choice)
Salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Peel or cut the skin off of the baked potatoes. Grate the potatoes using the largest holes of a box grater. Add salt and pepper and 2 Tbsp olive oil and mix the potato hash brown mixture carefully.
A note about substitutions: You may be tempted to try this with frozen or fresh-in-a-bag hash browns. I don't recommend it because they have more water content. The great thing about using leftover baked potatoes in this particular recipe is that in the process of baking they have steamed out a bunch of their water. Added water is not going to help your potatoes crisp up.
20 oz. of ComposiMold-LT or PowerMold
(PowerMold is stiffer and recommened for the Push Mold Technique.)
Polymer Clay (I used Sculpey brand)
A decal of your choice to use as your master part
An Oven and metal baking pan to bake the clay
Miscellaneous beads and wire
1. Prepare your master part by securing it the the bottom of a heat safe mold box. I used hot glue to ensure my piece wouldn't float and chose a tupperware lid that was deep enough as my mold box. (You can also use tin foil as a mold box and create any shape you want.) As a precaution I also sprayed my master part with a shellac because it is made of a wood. I didn't want any trapped air in the decal to escape into my mold and cause bubbles.
2. Melt the ComposiMold or PowerMold in the microwave or double boiler as per product instructions.
3. Spray your master part with mold release and then with Bubble Buster. I used a silicone Mold Release which is one of my favorites for non-food items. The Bubble Buster can be applied right over the top of the Mold Release.
4. Pour your melted ComposiMold or PowerMold into the lowest surface of the mold box and let it rise up over the master part. This will lift and carry away any bubbles that may be in the melted ComposiMold or PowerMold.
5. Let the mold solidify back to it's original consistency.
6. Remove your master part and clean up any rough edges with a sharp exacto blade.
7. Work the polymer clay in your hands until it is soft and pliable. This may take some elbow grease as it comes out of the package fairly hard.
8. When I preform the push-mold technique I sometimes roll a ball in my hands and then press the ball into the mold, pushing the ball flat and into the edges as I go. I may also start with a shape that's similar to the final casted shape. In this case I would make a pancake and lay it into the mold. Then I would add pressure to be sure it was filling all the details.
(In a more complex shape you would want to be sure that the deepest crevices where filled with clay first. This will ensure that the final cast reflects all the details of your mold.)
9. Bend the mold away from your newly pressed cast and let the cast simply fall out of the mold. Try not to warp the cast by forcing it out or bending the mold too much. Take your time on this step and you will have less clean up once the cast is completely de-molded.
10. Use a toothpick or similar tool to poke a hole through the clay casting. You will thread your wire through this hole when you create your hanging art pieces later.
11. Repeat as many times as you wish. The ComposiMold or PowerMold molds hold up very well to push molding. You can make dozens of casts this way and you don't need any mold release to make them.
12. Bake your clay per product instructions. The Sculpey brand recommends 15 minutes at 275F per each 1/8" of clay. 15 minutes was perfect for these thin pieces.
13. After the clay has cooled you can begin assembling your hanging ornament. I've used a 20gauge wire to create a loop that the rest of my decoration can be attached to. Use beads that you have laying around or you can make your own beads with Sculpey either by hand or in a another push mold.
IDEA: This particular shape lends itself to another cool possibility. You could use your exacto knife to cut the smaller flower in the center of the design and use it as it's own pendant. Poke 2 holes in this one at the top and bottom and "string" it into your design a little further up from the large pendant.
I hope this gives you all some ideas about how to use ComposiMold and PowerMold to make multiple art pieces that WILL sell at summer craft shows in your state. Work efficiently with a push mold technique like this one and the profits will speak for themselves. ~Michelle
Ever wanted to 3D print a real life building? It's actually pretty easy and this tutorial will summarize a few good forums and instructional sites on how to do this. Here's the general workflow:
What you will need:
A computer to run Google Earth, Google Sketch-Up, and Replicator G. All are free downloads.
Makerbot or similar 3D printer. If you don't have one, fear not, you can always send your file to Shapeways, Ponoko, or use one at TechShop.
I-Selecting and Downloading a Model: using Google Earth to find the building you want to print.
II-.skp to .stl (Sketch-Up to Rep. G): bringing the model into Sketch-Up to make some changes and exporting it as .stl file
III-Getting the File Ready for the Printer: Bringing the .stl file into Replicator G and exporting G-Code to Makerbot