Monday, August 12, 2013
First off is to get about 2L of goats milk, I use fresh. The act of heating it up also pasteurizes the milk at the same time so don't worry about that.
The process for cheese is a lot like yogurt, heat up to 170-185 degrees. I acquired a glass double boiler thanks to Kijiji for $25.00. This ensures I do not scaled the milk and give it an "off" flavour.
The rest of my used items was from a creative canvass of regular used items. The plastic tube is a hamburger press, works pretty good too!
So this is the hit list;
1 Liter goats milk
Juice of lemon (2-4 Tbsp divided)
1/2 tsp salt
Heat milk to 170-185 degrees, remove from heat and add lemon juice.
*if it does not curdle to you liking after 10-15mins, reheat and add lemon juice amts again.
Heat down to 120 degrees and ladle into cheese cloth
tie down or otherwise secure and weigh down
Refrigerate for 2hrs under weight
Remove and scrap out, add salt and seasonings (if desired) and stir in 1 tbsp of lemon juice.
Return to fridge for 48hrs to intensify flavour and will keep for 1 week. (Never lasts longer than a few days in my house anyways)
Seagate has long been a player in the storage industry, best known for its hard drive products and more recently, its hybrid HDD/SSD drives. As such, it may be surprising that it's taken so long for them to jump into the pure SSD consumer market as so many other already have. At this point, we are seeing drive makers reduce in number as component prices and sales margins fall, somewhat of an echo of sorts of how the spinning platter drive market evolved. Nevertheless, Seagate has chosen to power their latest 600 series drives with the Link_A_Media Devices (LAMD) LM87800 controller (now owned by SK Hynix) and pair it with Toshiba NAND - a configuration we've seen before with good results.
The 600 series is actually available in two configurations - one with a z-height of the familiar 7mm and another with a rarely seen 5mm (part numbers end 1). Both are available in capacities of 120GB, 240GB and 480GB. There is also a pro model with similar capacities plus higher overprovisioned capacities of 100GB, 200GB and 400GB. They are essentially the same drives as the non-pro but offers a few extras such as greater endurance and on-board capacitors as an extra measure to prevent data loss should power be suddenly interrupted. Here's a quick little overview video produced by Seagate:
The drives have admirable performance specifications of 550MB/s reads and 450MB/s writes and IOPS performance of 80,000/70,000 reads/writes respectively. All carry a three year warranty and Seagate's track record of quality.Nonrecoverable Read Errors per Bits Read:Annualized Failure Rate (AFR):Endurance (Total Bytes Written (TBW)):
Our test sample arrived bare in nondescript packaging so we have no images of that but the drive comes as is with no other frills such as adapter plates, cables, stickers or software. Although not relevant to performance, the exterior of the drive is quite attractive with the black textured surface and a white wave accent flowing down the left side. Definitely different than any other drive on the market. How about the inside? Let's see...
This idea was born out of a frustration from last year. I was a Scout Master on a National Youth Leadership Training course and I felt that it took to long to launch multiple 2 liter soda bottle water rockets. So I started to look for launchers that could launch several rockets at once but I did not find what I wanted. After searching the internet I found inspiration from several sources and designed the RPL (Rocket Propulsion Laboratory) a multiple rocket launch control center. Not only can you launch water rockets but paper and solid engine rockets as well.
I designed it with lots of lights and switches that get the boys intrigued and relay involved. The launcher I use is located here http://www.instructables.com/id/paper-and-pop-bottle-rocket-launcher/
I can't imaging why they couldn't build proper drainage into the production molds but since they didn't I decided to take matters into my own hands. A quick trip to my local depot store for a few odd pieces and I was ready to get started. Never shy to Frankenstein my Kayak to make it more usable, I grabbed my Dremil and swung into work with careless abandon!I had previously taken a swing at making it easier to empty the water from my cockpit by putting a drainage plug on its side, under the edge lip. Didn't work very well. Honestly, it didn't really work at all. The effort it took to rock the kayak back and forth over this little 1" hole just wasn't worth it and it ended up taking longer than normal methods.
Where to now? How could I drain the water of the cockpit without sacrificing its water tight integrity? Front, back, side, top, bottom? I originally though about putting a plug up towards the bow but the surface curvature was too much and I couldn't figure out how to mount a plug correctly. Plus, there's a large block of ballast foam stuck way up front and I'd have to dig that out. Too far up, too narrow and I'm too fat. Next...
The rear of the kayak was flat(ish) and would make a decent plug mount location but there was the problem of the rear watertight compartment. I'd have to allow the water through the watertight bulkhead, through the watertight compartment and out the watertight skin. Three "watertight" items that I've to pass water. Yeah, perfect, that will do nicely!!